A Port Preview: Ports on the Fredericksburg Wine Road 290

A new year means new adventures. One of the first is Fredericksburg Wine Road 290’s Port and Pairings on January 10^th. The member wineries will pair food with their fortified wines – be it Port, Sherry, or Madeira. To make the best of the short Sunday, it is best to know what is out there and what to taste.

The Event

The 13 members wineries will provide a pairing (often chocolate, dessert, or cheese) with one of their Ports (some of the members have more than one). Some of the wineries do not have Port, so they will provide a paring with another of their wines (often a sweet wine or a red).

There is no specific extra charge, but it is not exactly free. Some wineries will offer the single tasting and pairing for free, and some will provide the pairing for free. However, most wineries will require guests to purchase a tasting (standard tasting rules and fees apply). Of those, some do make it one of the options and others make it an extra to the tasting.

Pedernales Cellars' Ruby Port

A Port Primer

Port is not just any wine. Port and its cousins – Sherry, Madiera, and Marsala – are wines that go through a fortification process. This process increases both alcohol content and residual sugar.

To fortify said wines, brandy is introduced to stop the fermentation process. In order to achieve the rich flavors, sweetness, and alcohol, port is barrel aged, often longer than regular red wines.

The ageing of Port leads to different styles. Ruby Port is a full body and rich fruit flavors. These wines are aged only a short time. Tawny Ports take quite a bit longer. They are often aged 10 years or more in oak, which leads to a smooth taste that is dominated by butterscotch and/or nuts. In Texas, most ports are Ruby; however, older wineries have been working towards Tawny ports.

There is also a range of fortified wines. Port is the most common in Texas but Madeira is a growing addition to Texas’s Port Portfolio. Unlike Port, Madeira is “cooked.” The wine is subjected to long periods of heat; a very easy thing to do for most of the year. This process takes the wine in a bit different direction compared to Port – but not that different. The most obvious difference is shelf life: an open Port can be good for a few weeks (sometimes a month), and an open Madeira can be enjoyed until it’s gone.

And the rumors are true, Portugal is seeking to have Port a term only used on wines made in the Port style, using Port grapes, and vented in Portugal. Right now the issue is complicated; a number of the names – like Porto – are only available to Portuguese producers, but Port, itself, is still in limbo. In Texas, the older producers still use the Port label; however, newer producers and newer ports are often given a different name. One of the most common right now is Portejas (Port + Tejas).

Texas winemakers have found that the state can produce great Ports and related wines. For one, many of the Portuguese grapes grow well in Texas and are often common, including Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo, and Tinto Cao for the reds and Alabrino and Verdhlo for the whites. Second, Port is often a blend wine, a growing trend in Texas wine-making. In addition, Texas’s warm conditions – especially the very hot, often prolonged Summer – are conducive to making Madeira. Wine Road 290 Ports

290 Ports

Below is a quick overview of the Ports and related wines available at the Wine road 290 member wineries (and so possibly available during Port and Pairings). The wineries are ordered from West to East. NOTE: I have not tasted all of these Ports, so in some cases the information provided is that provided by the winery.

ChisolmTrail Winery

• 2010 Yellow Parasol: Made from Blanc du Bois, this Silver Medal winning wine has sweet, creamy white notes.
• 2008 Almagres: This is a new release made from Lenoir (AKA Black Spanish). This wine has strong red fruit notes (like raisin) and baking spice.

FredericksburgWinery

Port: This is a non-vintage blend with 11.2% residual sugar and 19% alcohol.

This winery’s tastings are always free.

RanchoPonte

• Messis non-vintage: This wine starts strong but mellows into sweet stone fruits.
• Titinia Rose: Strong floral nose and taste. The end has a warmer, sweeter flavor reminiscent of caramel.
• Renegade (Red): Made from Zinfandel, it is currently not available.

GrapeCreek Vineyards

 

Port: This port is primarily made from Merlot, with a hint of Cabernet Franc. The mellow 7% residual sugar leads to a lightly sweet wine that emphasizes ripe, sweet red fruits, especially cherry – rather than sugar – and a hint of baking spices. This port is more wine-like, as it focuses more on fruit flavors rather than a combination of other notes; it also ends relatively drive due to strong tannins.

Torredi Pietra

• Blanco: This popular white port is 18% alcohol and has sweet white notes, like stone fruits and nuts.
• Port 2010: This wine is primarily made from Black Spanish, but it is blended with Touriga (which can be detected). It is 18% alcohol and 6% residual sugar with flavors of heavy dark red fruits and red wine notes.

4.0Cellars

• Brennan Vineyards Portejas (Note: this may not be currently available.) This Ruby Cab Port has strong dark chocolate notes and winter spice. Its 19% alcohol produces a pleasant warming effect.
• Lost Oak Portejas: This non-vintage wine is described as a balance of the flavors found in Ruby and Tawny Port.

BeckerVineyards

Port: The current offering is a blend of Nebbiola, Tempranillo, Malbec, and Syrah. The nose is gentle, with soft fruit and hints of nut, but the taste emphasizes red fruits like plum with two typical port markers, caramel and nut. The strong tannins at the end make the wine less sweet.

HilmyCellars

At this time, Hilmy does not offer a Port. Erik Hilmy has considered making one.

Hilmy always makes sure to have a rich substitute wine and pairing.

WoodroseWinery

• 2012 Texas White Port: This sweet wine has light stone fruits and apples with a lingering finish.
• 2009 Texas Ruby Port: This is Lenoir (Black Spanish) Port has been barrel aged for 4 years. Strong red fruits, like cherry, give way to chocolate and anise.

Pedernales Cellars' Texas Dulce

Pedernales Cellars

• Ruby: This is a winery favorite. This wine is a blend of traditional Port grapes – Touriga and Tempranillo. This full bodied red has hints of caramel, chocolate, and nuts, but is dominated by strong, rich dried red fruit. This wine, like others, has a dry ending. 
• Texas Dulce: Made from award winning Viognier, the wine is a golden sweet peach accentuated with toasted almond and a hint of pecan. This Port is new, from October 2014.

William-Chris

Currently, William Chris has two wines and they are only available at the Madeira House. Here, the Rousanne Madeira is the foundation for a number of cocktails. Be careful, they can sneak up on you.

William Chris's Rousanne Madeira

• Roussane Madeira: This white starts with the brandy, needed to fortify the wine, and apricot, but quickly moves into a fresh shelled pecan that lingers well after tasting.
• Black Jacque: 100% Black Spanish Madeira dominated by raisin (nose and taste). The raisins in the taste are rich and deep, sweet, red fruits. It imparts warmth.

HyeMeadow

At this time, there is no port; it is still aging in the barrel. I have tasted it twice and have noticed its development. Once it is ready, it will have rich caramel and nut notes.

For now, Hye Meadow will offer a substitute wine and pairing.

TexasHills

• Rubino 2011: Made from Syrah has rich, red and light black fruit notes. This fruit forward port is not particularly sweet, as winemaker Gary Gilstrap prefers light sugar. The port ends light and pleasantly.
• Port Blanco 2012: This estate grown Orange Muscat Port has a more refined finish than the Rubino. Like the red port, it is very fruit forward with cool citrus notes and ripe stone fruit; as it moves, the stone fruit – pear and peach – take control to round out the citrus and soften the sweetness. This port is soft with and light and smooth mouth feel.

Hill Country Ports of Note

If Port and Pairings has you craving more, a number of neighboring wineries offer Port. As they are not on the trail, a tasting fee is a required. Also, there will be no specific pairing; however, most provide dark chocolate or similar confections (Compass Rose’s Almond Toffee s amazing) to highlight the Port.

FiestaWinery

• Decandencia: This popular dessert wine is made from Ruby Cabernet is (with some added flavors that accentuate the cherry and chocolate notes present in the Port). In the end, this seems quite a bit like a dark chocolate covered cherry.
• Sweet Bailey Ray: At 18% alcohol, this wine is strong, but its sweetness is mild. The wine has added flavors as well; instead of cherry, this is chocolate covered orange.

InwoodEstates

Blanc du Bois Port: Dan Gaitlin is known for meticulous crafting of his wines. This white Port has hints of dried apricots and a strong sense of nuts.

Messian Hof Hill Country Port

MessinaHof

Messina Hof has had the time to learn about and create great Ports. They currently have six ports. They differ from others because most are not fortified (the Bonariggos have found a way to create that result with just the wine). All are made from Black Spanish.

• Texas Tawny: This wine has been oxidized to create a rusty red color (like many true Tawnys). Caramel and dark chocolate notes end with a sense of dryness.
• Admirals’ Reserve: Made in honor of Admiral Nimitz, has a cherry nose and flavors of light cherry, caramel, and chocolate. (They consider this a cigar pairing wine.)
• Midnight Yell: A fruit forward Port that has light red fruits and dulce de leche flavors is a great intro port.
• Barrel Reserve: The light Ruby Port is fruity with hints of ripe cherry.
• Hill Country Estate Port (Black Label): From 100% Hill Country grapes, this port is the only one fortified with brandy. The dry finish follows rich caramel notes.
• Papa Paulo (Premium Red Label): This well-known Port has black cherry and earth on the nose. The flavor is tart black cherry and dark chocolate. This Port is smooth and sweet but has an earthy end.

CompassRose

Newly opened Compass Rose has decided to develop a Port and Madeira program; winemaker Robert Nida became fond of the styles, as well as Sherry, during study in Spain.

• 2012 Jacquez: The Port is a soft and alluring blend of raisin and walnut notes. The Black Spanish in the Port grows less sweet and the dark red fruits dominate as the port ends dry.
• Iron Spike: This Madeira is currently not available but has been available for tasting at special events. It is a richer, more subtle wine compared to the Jacquez, but has similar notes.

FlatCreek Estate

Barriques at Fat Creek

The winery has had a port program for quite a while. Port here is made from traditional port varietals, specifically estate grown Tinta Madeira, Tinta Cao, Touriga, and Tempranillo. Then, the wine is fortified during the fermentation process and aged in barrels. A while later, the port is moved into large traditional casks – barriques – where several vintages will be combined. The traditional use of the Solero method and Portuguese grapes helps bring out common port flavors.

V: A seven years old with a nose of plum and raisins accented by nut. The taste starts sweet, emphasizing the fruit, and then softens to highlight a more delicate balance of ripe fruit and nuts.

DryComal Creek

Another experienced winery is Dry Comal Creek in New Braunfels. The winery has become known for its two ports.

• 1096 Red Port: Made from estate grown Black Spanish, this wine is similar to many of the Black Spanish based fortified wines. This wine has strong red and black fruit and nuts (pecan and almond specifically).
• 1096 White Port: They use their signature white grape – French Colombard – to create a more sherry like experience. The port exudes sweet candy tastes, like bit-o-honey and butterscotch.

Conclusion

Many dry wine drinkers are scared off of port. Many worry about the taste -- too rich, too sweet, etc. A small selection of the available Ports shows that these can be various themselves, and there are many to fit most palates. 

Others are worried about the high alcohol content. As for alcohol content, that is offset by smaller portions, which is all that is needed with such rich wines. 

Flat Creek V

 So break open a bottle, sit by the fire, and sip on a bit of Texas. Or better yet, come out to Wine Road 290 for Port and Pairings.

Note: All photos taken by Sean Tait Bircher at Wine and Savages.

32. Dry Comal Creek: Leisurely Tasting and Talking

32. Dry Comal Creek: Leisurely Tasting and Talking
As we let wine flow,
words will follow -- dry, sweet, vital;
we harvest ourselves.


Last weekend, Sean and I decided to take it easy and stayed close to home. We gathered up my mother-in-law and made the short drive up to Dry Comal Creek near New Braunfels. We enjoyed a leisurely tasting followed by a chat over some wine. This impromptu visit allowed us the chance to slowly take the whole tasting experience in.

Dry Comal Creek's Grapes

First, there has been a lot of interest in Texas wineries using non-Texas grapes. I have read a number of responses providing reasons why some wineries choose grapes from other states and countries: there are not enough grapes to meet demand, Texas cannot produce enough specific grapes to meet commercial demand, and even Texas grapes are too expensive. Whatever the reason, Dry Comal Creek is one of those wineries that has decided to use California grapes and juice (as well as grapes from other states) to make a large number of their wines.

Black Spanish grapes at Dry Comal Creek

The one grape they do grow themselves is the Texas terroir's favorite: Black Spanish. As we drove on to the vineyard property, we were greeted by lush bunches of these grapes snuggly tucked beneath netting; they looked very close to being ready to harvest (the harvest and "Order of the Purple Foot Grape Stomp are coming up). To give the winery credit, this is their go to grape; it is the grape that dominates much of their wine offerings (that and the Colombard).

Dry Comal Creeks Black Spanish under the nets, late July 2012

And Dry Comal Creek's Black Spanish offerings are good. Honestly, I am not often impressed by wines that are dominated by the grape. I do realize it is one of Texas' two best grapes (the other being the other US hybrid Blanc du Bois), but I often find the Black Spanish wines a bit off. Even on my first visit to Dry Comal Creek, about two years ago now, I was not impressed. This visit, though, changed me. The current selection of Black Spanish based wines are fascinating and tasty. I am happy to have gone back and given them a second try.

The Wines

Dry Comal Creek Tasting Menu

The menu at Dry Comal Creek is a complex one, providing dry and demi-sweet whites, dry reds, and sparkling wines. That is just the main nine wines on the non-Reserve menu (a tasting that runs $10). Then there are the three Reserve reds (an additional $5 charge that I felt was worth it). Finally, there are two ports, which can be tasted for $5 each (a total of $10 that Sean happily paid).

Considering the breadth of this menu, I will only go into a few, those that most stood out and impressed me. And let me tell you, there were a number of pleasers.

Whites

The whites currently consist of a 2011 Dry French Colombard, a 2010 Suavignon Blanc, and a 2011 Demi-Sweet French Colombard. In this selection, the Dry French Colombard is the best. Even on my first visit, I felt that was the case. This wine is crisp and refreshing with strong citrus flavors. I also noticed a hint or herbs that rounded out and dried the citrus. I could honestly drink this white regularly, and I am not a big white fan.

Black Spanish Wines

The menu abounds with Black Spanish wines (the only comparable grape is the Colombard). These include a rose' -- White-Black Spanish IV -- 2010 Comal Red, Foot Pressed Red (this is the wine that commemorates their annual Harvest and Grape Stomp event), and a 2011 Black Spanish Reserve. All told, the reds, in general, were spicey and a bit fruity. When I drink them, I tend to notice flavors like nutmeg. Now, compared to my last visit, these reds are more balanced and subtle; good representations of Black Spanish.

The wine among them that most caught my interest was the White-Black Spanish IV. This rose' is a blend of Black Spanish and Muscat. The Muscat brings a nice citrusy sweetness to the sweet berry taste of the Black Spanish. However, this is not the sweetest Muscat, drier like many I have been drinking lately, so the wine doesn't become ovepowered. Instead, the wine seems to be only semi-sweet. As I drank it, I first noticed the Black Spanish, the ripe, red berries, that ended in the fruity citrus of the Muscat. It was a pleasant blend that moved naturally.

Sparkling

Dry Comal Creek offers two sparkling wines: a sparkling dry and a demi-sweet. Honestly, I  generally go for the dry. One of my favorites is Flat Creek's Sparkling Almond (another wine made from California grapes). For me, the bubbles in sparkling wines tend to set off dry wines better. These dry whites are great for Mimosa's -- a treat I enjoy. So of course I liked the dry, as it was a solid dry sparkling wine.

I was surprised by the demi-sweet. Normally, I avoid the sweeter sparkling wines. For me, they often leave a sticky, sweet aftertaste in my mouth. This is not the case here. The blend of Colombard and Muscat create a lightly fruity wine, one that ends subtly. The sweetness tends more towards the front and softens. When we tasted it, it was recommended to add this to cranberry juice; something Sean hardly agreed with. I think any fruit drink that doesn't tend to be too sweet or some good puree (I was thinking strawberry or peach) would also pair nicely.

Reserves

During this visit to Dry Comal Creek, there were three Reserve wines: 2008 Unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon (that was paired with the non-Reserve 2009 American oak barrel Caberent Sauvignon), a 2009 Petite Verdot (recently bottled), and the 2011 Black Spanish Reserve.

The Caberents are presented together to allow for comparison. The difference is clear: the oaked one has more depth of flavor that provides subtle earthy undertones and the unoaked (done entirely in steel) is smooth. Though both had a hint of the mineral nature of the terroir, the oaked brought it out and the unoaked smoothed it out.

The one that I liked best was the Petite Verdot. They had decanted it into a carafe and had been letting it breath. By the time I tasted it, and later enjoyed a glass, I was treated to a smooth and silky wine. At first, it swept through me. But on later tastes, the flavors perked up, providing subtle hints of berries, earth, and spice. The best was the spice that developed towards the end and lingered afterwards. And I want to emphasize, these flavors were subtle; I had to sit and take my time with the wine to really notice and enjoy them.

Ports

Though I can't detail the ports, as I didn't try them, Sean told me they were both good. The first port, 1096 Port made from the Black Spanish, was robust. However, Sean says the 1096 White Port, made from the Colombard, was the most interesting, providing a soft complex sweetness. He ended his day with a glass of it.

Sangria

Though it isn't on the tasting menu, we were treated to Franklin's Cheap Sangria. This wine cocktail, combining the Comal Red with lime, orange, and grapefruit juice, was served as a slush. It was a refreshing end on the hot day. What I found most interesting was the different tastes that came through this cocktail. Sometimes I tasted one of the fruit flavors, sometimes a combination. At other times, it seemed more like I was drinking a frozen mulled wine; the fruit and wine had a mulled wine and spicy flavor.

This wine can be enjoyed by the glass ($7 for one or $12 for two) and by the three gallon container (a party pleaser).  Though it is probably good in a more liquid state, I definietly recommend it in a slush form, especially this time of year. Even adults like Icees.

Enjoying Petite Verdot and 1096 White Port in the back room

We ended out visit enjoying the comfort of the back room. The three of us took our drinks to a table and chatted about the problems of the day, commiserating over the wine. Before leaving another party joined our table (it is a communal style set-up with large picnic tables) and joked as they shared a bottle of sparkling wine. It was nice to have a place to drink, relax, and talk inside (so many wineries have very little room inside for this). The three of us left refreshed and relaxed. Dry Comal Creek provided us a nice little get-away.