#IamanIconoclast

Very soon, the blog will be three years old. In that time, my Texas wine experience has been extensive. I have learned so much and continue to learn. I have met so many great people and made lots of friends. And I finally put my MFA to use; I began to write professionally (besides the blog). As it is the new year, I engaged in retrospection, specifically, what got me here. The answer was easy: Becker Vineyard's Iconoclast Cabernet Sauvignon.

I never really drank wine. I tried to do so during college, but I never found anything that really appealed to me -- I likely made some BAD choices. After I finished grad school and Sean and I moved back to San Antonio, we started having regular dinners at his grandparent's house. At dinner, Sean's grandmother would pour a glass of wine (or two, or three), but only she partook. So she didn't have to indulge alone, she tried to convince Sean and I to join her; we gave in. One of the first wines she shared with us was the Becker Iconoclast. She liked to support local businesses, and Becker vineyards was relatively local. Well, as the wine opened up and we proceeded to finish the bottle, we all decided that we were new fans. After that, Sean and I bought the wine quite regularly (we were on a tight budget and the normally under $10 price tag meet our requirements).

After awhile of regular indulgence, my parents decided to take us on a winery day trip to Fredericksburg. We were both a bit skeptical; mainly, we still thought of Fredericksburg as an antique town. Once there, we found ourselves in a vibrant local community. And we found our way to the wineries. Becker, Grape Creek, and Pedernales Cellars became the first wineries he visited. Every trip after, we returned to Becker (this was when they only had the front bar). Before long, we found ourselves making regular sojourns to the Hill Country.

As we became exposed to more and more wines, and the increasing number of wineries, we moved beyond our Iconoclast. Like many wine drinkers, we enjoyed the full body Cabernet, but we started to crave something a bit more complex. Sean quickly moved on to the Becker Claret and I to the Becker Malbec. We also moved out of our comfort zone. At Pedernales Cellars we became enamored of Viognier (the first white we really took a liking to). At this time, our budget expanded, and these new wines, though a bit more costly than our Iconoclast, became our new go to wines. But when we needed to, we turned back to our old favorite.


In addition to drinking more wine and adventuring into new wine territory, we started to learn about wine, wine making, and grape growing. It did not take long to learn the truth about Texas wine. If we looked, the numbers were everywhere: Texas bought more wine than the state could produce, and even more wine than our vineyards could even keep up with. About this time, I took up the blog and dove headlong into the Texas wine industry.

How wineries operated, how wine is made were early lessons. But I had to understand the source, so I started to learn about the vineyards. I found out where most were located and who tended those vineyards. I learned about the grapes and the obstacles these brave farmers faced. And then I learned about the outsourcing.

Most wineries buy grapes from vineyards other than their own; they just cannot make enough for the demand. For many, these grapes only come from other Texas vineyards. Due to the limited quality -- and in some years, limited quantity -- the wineries can only produce so much wine. For many, that works, as they would prefer to remain a boutique winery. For others, Texas grapes just can't cut it.

To make up for the demand and limited supply, many wineries look to out of state vineyards. Some wineries due this, especially in their early years, to make sure to have enough product as they develop their own vineyards and vineyard contracts. Others source from out of state because they wish to experiment and explore other avenues for their grape growing and wine making. For these sorts of wineries, they hope to change from out of state to state grapes, but vineyards are expensive and generally take 3-5 years before the grapes can make wine (and then add on another 1-2 years for the reds). These dedicated Texas wineries work to achieve their goal, but they need a help to get there.

And other wineries buy out of state fruit and juice for financial reasons. Often done by larger, more commercial wineries, the out of state grapes and juice lead to more wine. These numbers allow for many things. One, the money helps to build Texas wine and all its aspects, as well as pay for workers at the wineries -- in the vineyards, in the winery, in the tasting room. This large production allows the wineries to sell to distributors; as they do that, the wine finds its way into more retail locations and restaurants.

These large operations spread Texas wine. The wine gets to people who do not live in the wine communities. The wine gets to people who would never think Texas made wine, let alone stellar wine. The wine reaches people who are curious but do not want to spend a lot on an experiment. The wine gets to people on a budget. In the end, the wine made from out of state grapes and juice introduces new drinkers to Texas wine. And once, that has begun, those new converts cannot turn back. Becker Iconoclast is one such wine.

And I am grateful for Becker Iconoclast. When I did not know much and had little disposal income, the wine started a spark. Even though the wine generally has no Texas grapes, it still made an impact. If I never had that wine, would I have taken my parents up on the offer to visit the burgeoning Hill Country? Would I have ever joined my first wine club (which was Becker by the way)? Would I have started drinking more and more Texas wine from more and more wineries? Would I have started writing about wine (and got back to my other dormant writing)? Would I have met all the wonderful people I now know? I'm not sure, but I am here now and I started with that singular wine.

Even one of our cat's approves!

Though I started with the Becker Iconoclast, I rarely drink it today. Recently, when deciding to go back and see what began this journey, I began a journey back to my early wine days. With every sip, I relived a past that means so much to me. I also remembered that this wine is actually pretty good. Yes, I have had far better wines, and yes, I have even had worse. Also, I drink more 100% or close to 100% Texas wines, but I drink ones that have nothing to do with Texas too. That doesn't make the Becker Iconoclast less special for me.That one simple little wine opened a door I hope never closes.
I am thankful that #IamanIconoclast.

A Port Preview: Ports on the Fredericksburg Wine Road 290

A new year means new adventures. One of the first is Fredericksburg Wine Road 290’s Port and Pairings on January 10^th. The member wineries will pair food with their fortified wines – be it Port, Sherry, or Madeira. To make the best of the short Sunday, it is best to know what is out there and what to taste.

The Event

The 13 members wineries will provide a pairing (often chocolate, dessert, or cheese) with one of their Ports (some of the members have more than one). Some of the wineries do not have Port, so they will provide a paring with another of their wines (often a sweet wine or a red).

There is no specific extra charge, but it is not exactly free. Some wineries will offer the single tasting and pairing for free, and some will provide the pairing for free. However, most wineries will require guests to purchase a tasting (standard tasting rules and fees apply). Of those, some do make it one of the options and others make it an extra to the tasting.

Pedernales Cellars' Ruby Port

A Port Primer

Port is not just any wine. Port and its cousins – Sherry, Madiera, and Marsala – are wines that go through a fortification process. This process increases both alcohol content and residual sugar.

To fortify said wines, brandy is introduced to stop the fermentation process. In order to achieve the rich flavors, sweetness, and alcohol, port is barrel aged, often longer than regular red wines.

The ageing of Port leads to different styles. Ruby Port is a full body and rich fruit flavors. These wines are aged only a short time. Tawny Ports take quite a bit longer. They are often aged 10 years or more in oak, which leads to a smooth taste that is dominated by butterscotch and/or nuts. In Texas, most ports are Ruby; however, older wineries have been working towards Tawny ports.

There is also a range of fortified wines. Port is the most common in Texas but Madeira is a growing addition to Texas’s Port Portfolio. Unlike Port, Madeira is “cooked.” The wine is subjected to long periods of heat; a very easy thing to do for most of the year. This process takes the wine in a bit different direction compared to Port – but not that different. The most obvious difference is shelf life: an open Port can be good for a few weeks (sometimes a month), and an open Madeira can be enjoyed until it’s gone.

And the rumors are true, Portugal is seeking to have Port a term only used on wines made in the Port style, using Port grapes, and vented in Portugal. Right now the issue is complicated; a number of the names – like Porto – are only available to Portuguese producers, but Port, itself, is still in limbo. In Texas, the older producers still use the Port label; however, newer producers and newer ports are often given a different name. One of the most common right now is Portejas (Port + Tejas).

Texas winemakers have found that the state can produce great Ports and related wines. For one, many of the Portuguese grapes grow well in Texas and are often common, including Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo, and Tinto Cao for the reds and Alabrino and Verdhlo for the whites. Second, Port is often a blend wine, a growing trend in Texas wine-making. In addition, Texas’s warm conditions – especially the very hot, often prolonged Summer – are conducive to making Madeira. Wine Road 290 Ports

290 Ports

Below is a quick overview of the Ports and related wines available at the Wine road 290 member wineries (and so possibly available during Port and Pairings). The wineries are ordered from West to East. NOTE: I have not tasted all of these Ports, so in some cases the information provided is that provided by the winery.

ChisolmTrail Winery

• 2010 Yellow Parasol: Made from Blanc du Bois, this Silver Medal winning wine has sweet, creamy white notes.
• 2008 Almagres: This is a new release made from Lenoir (AKA Black Spanish). This wine has strong red fruit notes (like raisin) and baking spice.

FredericksburgWinery

Port: This is a non-vintage blend with 11.2% residual sugar and 19% alcohol.

This winery’s tastings are always free.

RanchoPonte

• Messis non-vintage: This wine starts strong but mellows into sweet stone fruits.
• Titinia Rose: Strong floral nose and taste. The end has a warmer, sweeter flavor reminiscent of caramel.
• Renegade (Red): Made from Zinfandel, it is currently not available.

GrapeCreek Vineyards

 

Port: This port is primarily made from Merlot, with a hint of Cabernet Franc. The mellow 7% residual sugar leads to a lightly sweet wine that emphasizes ripe, sweet red fruits, especially cherry – rather than sugar – and a hint of baking spices. This port is more wine-like, as it focuses more on fruit flavors rather than a combination of other notes; it also ends relatively drive due to strong tannins.

Torredi Pietra

• Blanco: This popular white port is 18% alcohol and has sweet white notes, like stone fruits and nuts.
• Port 2010: This wine is primarily made from Black Spanish, but it is blended with Touriga (which can be detected). It is 18% alcohol and 6% residual sugar with flavors of heavy dark red fruits and red wine notes.

4.0Cellars

• Brennan Vineyards Portejas (Note: this may not be currently available.) This Ruby Cab Port has strong dark chocolate notes and winter spice. Its 19% alcohol produces a pleasant warming effect.
• Lost Oak Portejas: This non-vintage wine is described as a balance of the flavors found in Ruby and Tawny Port.

BeckerVineyards

Port: The current offering is a blend of Nebbiola, Tempranillo, Malbec, and Syrah. The nose is gentle, with soft fruit and hints of nut, but the taste emphasizes red fruits like plum with two typical port markers, caramel and nut. The strong tannins at the end make the wine less sweet.

HilmyCellars

At this time, Hilmy does not offer a Port. Erik Hilmy has considered making one.

Hilmy always makes sure to have a rich substitute wine and pairing.

WoodroseWinery

• 2012 Texas White Port: This sweet wine has light stone fruits and apples with a lingering finish.
• 2009 Texas Ruby Port: This is Lenoir (Black Spanish) Port has been barrel aged for 4 years. Strong red fruits, like cherry, give way to chocolate and anise.

Pedernales Cellars' Texas Dulce

Pedernales Cellars

• Ruby: This is a winery favorite. This wine is a blend of traditional Port grapes – Touriga and Tempranillo. This full bodied red has hints of caramel, chocolate, and nuts, but is dominated by strong, rich dried red fruit. This wine, like others, has a dry ending. 
• Texas Dulce: Made from award winning Viognier, the wine is a golden sweet peach accentuated with toasted almond and a hint of pecan. This Port is new, from October 2014.

William-Chris

Currently, William Chris has two wines and they are only available at the Madeira House. Here, the Rousanne Madeira is the foundation for a number of cocktails. Be careful, they can sneak up on you.

William Chris's Rousanne Madeira

• Roussane Madeira: This white starts with the brandy, needed to fortify the wine, and apricot, but quickly moves into a fresh shelled pecan that lingers well after tasting.
• Black Jacque: 100% Black Spanish Madeira dominated by raisin (nose and taste). The raisins in the taste are rich and deep, sweet, red fruits. It imparts warmth.

HyeMeadow

At this time, there is no port; it is still aging in the barrel. I have tasted it twice and have noticed its development. Once it is ready, it will have rich caramel and nut notes.

For now, Hye Meadow will offer a substitute wine and pairing.

TexasHills

• Rubino 2011: Made from Syrah has rich, red and light black fruit notes. This fruit forward port is not particularly sweet, as winemaker Gary Gilstrap prefers light sugar. The port ends light and pleasantly.
• Port Blanco 2012: This estate grown Orange Muscat Port has a more refined finish than the Rubino. Like the red port, it is very fruit forward with cool citrus notes and ripe stone fruit; as it moves, the stone fruit – pear and peach – take control to round out the citrus and soften the sweetness. This port is soft with and light and smooth mouth feel.

Hill Country Ports of Note

If Port and Pairings has you craving more, a number of neighboring wineries offer Port. As they are not on the trail, a tasting fee is a required. Also, there will be no specific pairing; however, most provide dark chocolate or similar confections (Compass Rose’s Almond Toffee s amazing) to highlight the Port.

FiestaWinery

• Decandencia: This popular dessert wine is made from Ruby Cabernet is (with some added flavors that accentuate the cherry and chocolate notes present in the Port). In the end, this seems quite a bit like a dark chocolate covered cherry.
• Sweet Bailey Ray: At 18% alcohol, this wine is strong, but its sweetness is mild. The wine has added flavors as well; instead of cherry, this is chocolate covered orange.

InwoodEstates

Blanc du Bois Port: Dan Gaitlin is known for meticulous crafting of his wines. This white Port has hints of dried apricots and a strong sense of nuts.

Messian Hof Hill Country Port

MessinaHof

Messina Hof has had the time to learn about and create great Ports. They currently have six ports. They differ from others because most are not fortified (the Bonariggos have found a way to create that result with just the wine). All are made from Black Spanish.

• Texas Tawny: This wine has been oxidized to create a rusty red color (like many true Tawnys). Caramel and dark chocolate notes end with a sense of dryness.
• Admirals’ Reserve: Made in honor of Admiral Nimitz, has a cherry nose and flavors of light cherry, caramel, and chocolate. (They consider this a cigar pairing wine.)
• Midnight Yell: A fruit forward Port that has light red fruits and dulce de leche flavors is a great intro port.
• Barrel Reserve: The light Ruby Port is fruity with hints of ripe cherry.
• Hill Country Estate Port (Black Label): From 100% Hill Country grapes, this port is the only one fortified with brandy. The dry finish follows rich caramel notes.
• Papa Paulo (Premium Red Label): This well-known Port has black cherry and earth on the nose. The flavor is tart black cherry and dark chocolate. This Port is smooth and sweet but has an earthy end.

CompassRose

Newly opened Compass Rose has decided to develop a Port and Madeira program; winemaker Robert Nida became fond of the styles, as well as Sherry, during study in Spain.

• 2012 Jacquez: The Port is a soft and alluring blend of raisin and walnut notes. The Black Spanish in the Port grows less sweet and the dark red fruits dominate as the port ends dry.
• Iron Spike: This Madeira is currently not available but has been available for tasting at special events. It is a richer, more subtle wine compared to the Jacquez, but has similar notes.

FlatCreek Estate

Barriques at Fat Creek

The winery has had a port program for quite a while. Port here is made from traditional port varietals, specifically estate grown Tinta Madeira, Tinta Cao, Touriga, and Tempranillo. Then, the wine is fortified during the fermentation process and aged in barrels. A while later, the port is moved into large traditional casks – barriques – where several vintages will be combined. The traditional use of the Solero method and Portuguese grapes helps bring out common port flavors.

V: A seven years old with a nose of plum and raisins accented by nut. The taste starts sweet, emphasizing the fruit, and then softens to highlight a more delicate balance of ripe fruit and nuts.

DryComal Creek

Another experienced winery is Dry Comal Creek in New Braunfels. The winery has become known for its two ports.

• 1096 Red Port: Made from estate grown Black Spanish, this wine is similar to many of the Black Spanish based fortified wines. This wine has strong red and black fruit and nuts (pecan and almond specifically).
• 1096 White Port: They use their signature white grape – French Colombard – to create a more sherry like experience. The port exudes sweet candy tastes, like bit-o-honey and butterscotch.

Conclusion

Many dry wine drinkers are scared off of port. Many worry about the taste -- too rich, too sweet, etc. A small selection of the available Ports shows that these can be various themselves, and there are many to fit most palates. 

Others are worried about the high alcohol content. As for alcohol content, that is offset by smaller portions, which is all that is needed with such rich wines. 

Flat Creek V

 So break open a bottle, sit by the fire, and sip on a bit of Texas. Or better yet, come out to Wine Road 290 for Port and Pairings.

Note: All photos taken by Sean Tait Bircher at Wine and Savages.