Summer Fun: May 2015

As the temperatures rise, I naturally seek indoors, especially here in Texas. Before long, I find myself without much to do. But, this summer has not followed tradition. For one, it has stayed cooler -- thus far -- and there has been plenty to do. Events quickly filled up my calendar. So in between teaching classes and household chores that I put off until I had time, I have found myself at one place or another. As it all begins to slow down, I finally can sit back and share some of these special occasions.

So first up... May. Things started off quick. I waded through finals and portfolios for the six classes I was teaching, but I often got away.

Annual Kentucky Derby Party @ Bending Branch Winery

We started the month with one of our new annual traditions. For this year's party, Bending Branch made it a ticketed event. This new system limited the number of people so the winery could provide a better overall experience. The party was held at the new production facility out on the crush pad. This location provided plenty of room, shade, and space for a very large screen. Some guests brought snacks and picnics, but everyone also enjoyed a BBQ plate, a glass of wine and bourbon ball. Before the race, guests lined up to complete in this years hat contest. Contestants took the fun to a whole new level, which made me glad I opted out and wore my first wine hat. The afternoon culminated with the race. Who knew we would watch he first Triple Crown win in decades.

Pedernales Cellars Reserve Viognier Release

So, a wine release may not seem like much, unless it is the long awaited Reserve Viognier. Two years ago, this incredible wine took Double Gold at an international wine competition in Lyon, France, opening the door for a growing list of Texas winners. Last year, weather took the crop, and most Texas white grapes, so when a 2014 vintage became available, Pedernales threw a small party. Media came out to sample the wine and pairings. All guests did a vertical tasting of the award winning Viognier (which is NO longer available) and the newest vintage. The current release is clearly a young wine. The 12 leads with rich, golden stone fruit flavors with just enough citrus and acid to create nice balance. The 14 is tart and powerful; citrus notes -- and the sense of citric acid -- dominate to create a crisp wine; the typical stone fruit characteristics are bright and light and show promise to settle this wild child. Drink 12 now and hold 14 till at least 2016.

Memorial Day Weekend

We all know the big story: rain. Sean and I ventured up on Saturday to see some friends from out of town. While lounging at our last stop for the day -- Hye Meadow -- the rain came in. We thought we could wait it out since the rain began relatively earlier (around 3). We were wrong. We finally gave in at 6 and made the long drive home in the downpour. We had to avoid two of our normal routes -- 1376 through Sisterdale and 281 -- because of flooding (after only a few hours). We made it home safe and sound to hear that many areas were devastated. As a Texas State grad, I was saddened by the losses in San Marcos, as well as the neighboring communities (Wimberely and Blanco) where many of the residents I got to know during my three years at school lived. Of course, in the following days, many wineries reached out to help those in need.

Anniversary Weekend

Many Hill Country wineries celebrated their anniversaries in May. We were lucky enough to go to two "first" year ones at the very end of the month.

Fat Ass Winery threw a large party for friends and wine club members. A beautiful sunset set the stage (the weekend after the Memorial day rains). The band jammed all night, and their rhythms just demanded dancing. Of course, a highlight was the wine slushes; these tasty creations went down well. The bit surprise were the two new dry reds now available.

Compass Rose Cellars celebrated 1 year in Hye as well. Of course, the winery is always growing. The new restaurant headed by Bryan Gillenwater headlined the evening, as well as the view. This night was more low key, just like the relaxing mood set by the locale. The winery had lots to celebrate. In addition to the restaurant, they broke ground on new production facilities in Hye and have begun work on their take on a B&B. Year two will have some serious celebrating.

As May came to a close, June beckoned with even more fun.

A Port Preview: Ports on the Fredericksburg Wine Road 290

A new year means new adventures. One of the first is Fredericksburg Wine Road 290’s Port and Pairings on January 10^th. The member wineries will pair food with their fortified wines – be it Port, Sherry, or Madeira. To make the best of the short Sunday, it is best to know what is out there and what to taste.

The Event

The 13 members wineries will provide a pairing (often chocolate, dessert, or cheese) with one of their Ports (some of the members have more than one). Some of the wineries do not have Port, so they will provide a paring with another of their wines (often a sweet wine or a red).

There is no specific extra charge, but it is not exactly free. Some wineries will offer the single tasting and pairing for free, and some will provide the pairing for free. However, most wineries will require guests to purchase a tasting (standard tasting rules and fees apply). Of those, some do make it one of the options and others make it an extra to the tasting.

Pedernales Cellars' Ruby Port

A Port Primer

Port is not just any wine. Port and its cousins – Sherry, Madiera, and Marsala – are wines that go through a fortification process. This process increases both alcohol content and residual sugar.

To fortify said wines, brandy is introduced to stop the fermentation process. In order to achieve the rich flavors, sweetness, and alcohol, port is barrel aged, often longer than regular red wines.

The ageing of Port leads to different styles. Ruby Port is a full body and rich fruit flavors. These wines are aged only a short time. Tawny Ports take quite a bit longer. They are often aged 10 years or more in oak, which leads to a smooth taste that is dominated by butterscotch and/or nuts. In Texas, most ports are Ruby; however, older wineries have been working towards Tawny ports.

There is also a range of fortified wines. Port is the most common in Texas but Madeira is a growing addition to Texas’s Port Portfolio. Unlike Port, Madeira is “cooked.” The wine is subjected to long periods of heat; a very easy thing to do for most of the year. This process takes the wine in a bit different direction compared to Port – but not that different. The most obvious difference is shelf life: an open Port can be good for a few weeks (sometimes a month), and an open Madeira can be enjoyed until it’s gone.

And the rumors are true, Portugal is seeking to have Port a term only used on wines made in the Port style, using Port grapes, and vented in Portugal. Right now the issue is complicated; a number of the names – like Porto – are only available to Portuguese producers, but Port, itself, is still in limbo. In Texas, the older producers still use the Port label; however, newer producers and newer ports are often given a different name. One of the most common right now is Portejas (Port + Tejas).

Texas winemakers have found that the state can produce great Ports and related wines. For one, many of the Portuguese grapes grow well in Texas and are often common, including Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo, and Tinto Cao for the reds and Alabrino and Verdhlo for the whites. Second, Port is often a blend wine, a growing trend in Texas wine-making. In addition, Texas’s warm conditions – especially the very hot, often prolonged Summer – are conducive to making Madeira. Wine Road 290 Ports

290 Ports

Below is a quick overview of the Ports and related wines available at the Wine road 290 member wineries (and so possibly available during Port and Pairings). The wineries are ordered from West to East. NOTE: I have not tasted all of these Ports, so in some cases the information provided is that provided by the winery.

ChisolmTrail Winery

• 2010 Yellow Parasol: Made from Blanc du Bois, this Silver Medal winning wine has sweet, creamy white notes.
• 2008 Almagres: This is a new release made from Lenoir (AKA Black Spanish). This wine has strong red fruit notes (like raisin) and baking spice.

FredericksburgWinery

Port: This is a non-vintage blend with 11.2% residual sugar and 19% alcohol.

This winery’s tastings are always free.

RanchoPonte

• Messis non-vintage: This wine starts strong but mellows into sweet stone fruits.
• Titinia Rose: Strong floral nose and taste. The end has a warmer, sweeter flavor reminiscent of caramel.
• Renegade (Red): Made from Zinfandel, it is currently not available.

GrapeCreek Vineyards

 

Port: This port is primarily made from Merlot, with a hint of Cabernet Franc. The mellow 7% residual sugar leads to a lightly sweet wine that emphasizes ripe, sweet red fruits, especially cherry – rather than sugar – and a hint of baking spices. This port is more wine-like, as it focuses more on fruit flavors rather than a combination of other notes; it also ends relatively drive due to strong tannins.

Torredi Pietra

• Blanco: This popular white port is 18% alcohol and has sweet white notes, like stone fruits and nuts.
• Port 2010: This wine is primarily made from Black Spanish, but it is blended with Touriga (which can be detected). It is 18% alcohol and 6% residual sugar with flavors of heavy dark red fruits and red wine notes.

4.0Cellars

• Brennan Vineyards Portejas (Note: this may not be currently available.) This Ruby Cab Port has strong dark chocolate notes and winter spice. Its 19% alcohol produces a pleasant warming effect.
• Lost Oak Portejas: This non-vintage wine is described as a balance of the flavors found in Ruby and Tawny Port.

BeckerVineyards

Port: The current offering is a blend of Nebbiola, Tempranillo, Malbec, and Syrah. The nose is gentle, with soft fruit and hints of nut, but the taste emphasizes red fruits like plum with two typical port markers, caramel and nut. The strong tannins at the end make the wine less sweet.

HilmyCellars

At this time, Hilmy does not offer a Port. Erik Hilmy has considered making one.

Hilmy always makes sure to have a rich substitute wine and pairing.

WoodroseWinery

• 2012 Texas White Port: This sweet wine has light stone fruits and apples with a lingering finish.
• 2009 Texas Ruby Port: This is Lenoir (Black Spanish) Port has been barrel aged for 4 years. Strong red fruits, like cherry, give way to chocolate and anise.

Pedernales Cellars' Texas Dulce

Pedernales Cellars

• Ruby: This is a winery favorite. This wine is a blend of traditional Port grapes – Touriga and Tempranillo. This full bodied red has hints of caramel, chocolate, and nuts, but is dominated by strong, rich dried red fruit. This wine, like others, has a dry ending. 
• Texas Dulce: Made from award winning Viognier, the wine is a golden sweet peach accentuated with toasted almond and a hint of pecan. This Port is new, from October 2014.

William-Chris

Currently, William Chris has two wines and they are only available at the Madeira House. Here, the Rousanne Madeira is the foundation for a number of cocktails. Be careful, they can sneak up on you.

William Chris's Rousanne Madeira

• Roussane Madeira: This white starts with the brandy, needed to fortify the wine, and apricot, but quickly moves into a fresh shelled pecan that lingers well after tasting.
• Black Jacque: 100% Black Spanish Madeira dominated by raisin (nose and taste). The raisins in the taste are rich and deep, sweet, red fruits. It imparts warmth.

HyeMeadow

At this time, there is no port; it is still aging in the barrel. I have tasted it twice and have noticed its development. Once it is ready, it will have rich caramel and nut notes.

For now, Hye Meadow will offer a substitute wine and pairing.

TexasHills

• Rubino 2011: Made from Syrah has rich, red and light black fruit notes. This fruit forward port is not particularly sweet, as winemaker Gary Gilstrap prefers light sugar. The port ends light and pleasantly.
• Port Blanco 2012: This estate grown Orange Muscat Port has a more refined finish than the Rubino. Like the red port, it is very fruit forward with cool citrus notes and ripe stone fruit; as it moves, the stone fruit – pear and peach – take control to round out the citrus and soften the sweetness. This port is soft with and light and smooth mouth feel.

Hill Country Ports of Note

If Port and Pairings has you craving more, a number of neighboring wineries offer Port. As they are not on the trail, a tasting fee is a required. Also, there will be no specific pairing; however, most provide dark chocolate or similar confections (Compass Rose’s Almond Toffee s amazing) to highlight the Port.

FiestaWinery

• Decandencia: This popular dessert wine is made from Ruby Cabernet is (with some added flavors that accentuate the cherry and chocolate notes present in the Port). In the end, this seems quite a bit like a dark chocolate covered cherry.
• Sweet Bailey Ray: At 18% alcohol, this wine is strong, but its sweetness is mild. The wine has added flavors as well; instead of cherry, this is chocolate covered orange.

InwoodEstates

Blanc du Bois Port: Dan Gaitlin is known for meticulous crafting of his wines. This white Port has hints of dried apricots and a strong sense of nuts.

Messian Hof Hill Country Port

MessinaHof

Messina Hof has had the time to learn about and create great Ports. They currently have six ports. They differ from others because most are not fortified (the Bonariggos have found a way to create that result with just the wine). All are made from Black Spanish.

• Texas Tawny: This wine has been oxidized to create a rusty red color (like many true Tawnys). Caramel and dark chocolate notes end with a sense of dryness.
• Admirals’ Reserve: Made in honor of Admiral Nimitz, has a cherry nose and flavors of light cherry, caramel, and chocolate. (They consider this a cigar pairing wine.)
• Midnight Yell: A fruit forward Port that has light red fruits and dulce de leche flavors is a great intro port.
• Barrel Reserve: The light Ruby Port is fruity with hints of ripe cherry.
• Hill Country Estate Port (Black Label): From 100% Hill Country grapes, this port is the only one fortified with brandy. The dry finish follows rich caramel notes.
• Papa Paulo (Premium Red Label): This well-known Port has black cherry and earth on the nose. The flavor is tart black cherry and dark chocolate. This Port is smooth and sweet but has an earthy end.

CompassRose

Newly opened Compass Rose has decided to develop a Port and Madeira program; winemaker Robert Nida became fond of the styles, as well as Sherry, during study in Spain.

• 2012 Jacquez: The Port is a soft and alluring blend of raisin and walnut notes. The Black Spanish in the Port grows less sweet and the dark red fruits dominate as the port ends dry.
• Iron Spike: This Madeira is currently not available but has been available for tasting at special events. It is a richer, more subtle wine compared to the Jacquez, but has similar notes.

FlatCreek Estate

Barriques at Fat Creek

The winery has had a port program for quite a while. Port here is made from traditional port varietals, specifically estate grown Tinta Madeira, Tinta Cao, Touriga, and Tempranillo. Then, the wine is fortified during the fermentation process and aged in barrels. A while later, the port is moved into large traditional casks – barriques – where several vintages will be combined. The traditional use of the Solero method and Portuguese grapes helps bring out common port flavors.

V: A seven years old with a nose of plum and raisins accented by nut. The taste starts sweet, emphasizing the fruit, and then softens to highlight a more delicate balance of ripe fruit and nuts.

DryComal Creek

Another experienced winery is Dry Comal Creek in New Braunfels. The winery has become known for its two ports.

• 1096 Red Port: Made from estate grown Black Spanish, this wine is similar to many of the Black Spanish based fortified wines. This wine has strong red and black fruit and nuts (pecan and almond specifically).
• 1096 White Port: They use their signature white grape – French Colombard – to create a more sherry like experience. The port exudes sweet candy tastes, like bit-o-honey and butterscotch.

Conclusion

Many dry wine drinkers are scared off of port. Many worry about the taste -- too rich, too sweet, etc. A small selection of the available Ports shows that these can be various themselves, and there are many to fit most palates. 

Others are worried about the high alcohol content. As for alcohol content, that is offset by smaller portions, which is all that is needed with such rich wines. 

Flat Creek V

 So break open a bottle, sit by the fire, and sip on a bit of Texas. Or better yet, come out to Wine Road 290 for Port and Pairings.

Note: All photos taken by Sean Tait Bircher at Wine and Savages.

Looking Back to Look Forward: Fly Gap December 2014

I am returning to the blog. My worked quickly filled November and December. However, my three short weeks of vacation has begun, so I am returning to these pages. And it so happens, that the following post is another return.

The clouds seemed to break for us, as we sat down at the picnic table to drink wine and catch up. A chilly breeze blew along the open fields in Mason County. The collection of buildings around us were transforming, slowly developing from dream into reality. This day was very different from the day in early June when I first stepped foot here. As 2014 draws to a close, I see growth and a bright future for Fly Gap Winery.

Mason Punch and Johnny Rojo

In June, Brock Estes allowed me to see his dream. We road through the hills along sandy, red dirt roads to see a place ripe for new life. When we finally arrived at the location that would soon be his winery and tasting room, I looked out on a clean block that would one day become a statue. The production facility had no siding, just an ever developing foundation of concrete vats that, one day, would flow with Mason County grapes. The future tasting room was filled with a collection of many pasts, not yet ready to become a future. The cellar was a roof and three walls with a rough dirt floor. But, I knew that this was only the beginning.

Concrete Vessel, June 2014

Just six months later, the form has begun to take shape. It is rough yet, but it shows signs of what is to be. The production facility now has siding and is better prepared to protect the wine. Boxes of the newest wine fill the space. This wall of white cardboard holds something precious: Brock's first 100% Mason wine and the first to be bottled on the premise. The cellar dives deep into the red earth, on schedule to begin its next phase. The tasting room has begun to let its memories go, and in it is the future back bar.

Production Facility, December 2014

Despite the cold breeze, Brock, my husband Sean, and I sat outside to take everything in. We sipped on the last release – Johnny Rojo – enjoying its growth since the late summer. This wine has begun to mature. It has relaxed into itself, softening its rougher edges and growing more harmonious. This wine lulled us into forgetting that it was December, its warmth a relaxing touch.

Mason Punch, front

And we tasted the newest wine – Mason Punch. This wine is special. The four previous wines, though made from Texas fruit, do not bear the name Fly Gap. These four wines are Dank. The Fly Gap name is reserved for those wines born in Mason County. Mason Punch is only the first. But it is young, much like the ever changing landscape of the winery. On that day, a youthfulness, new spring life, moved through the blend of 44% Touriga and 56% Tempranillo. The dusky terroir was quiet, and the fruit engaged in a frenetic dance. In the bottle, a dream is taking shape. But much like the world around it, it is finding its way.

Mason Punch, back

The sun moved across the sky; we were reminded that it was the shortest day of the year. We let the day slip by: witnessing a dream take shape does that. So we gathered up our wines – the maturing Johnny Rojo and the youthful Mason Punch – and set out into the setting sun.

Note: We all noticed a greenness to the newest wine, indicating that it may yet be too young to drink. However, there is a lot of potential, so we brought a few bottles home and plan to let them age a bit.