WW: Politics and Religion @ Hilmy Cellars

This past weekend, I had the opportunity to try a brand new release at Hilmy Cellars. The 2010 Politics and Religion red blend has been a mystery since the winery opened. From the very beginning, release dates were sketchy, but everyone knew something was coming. Early estimations had been July, but that month went and passed with no word. But as the Fall wine shipment appeared on the horizon, teasers came out. And before we all knew it, the new blend was about to see the light of day.

Politics and Religion at the tasting release party

A Little Back Story

This is one of the early wines made by the winery, but it was been left aging for quite awhile. This is a 2010 vintage that was bottled only days before the unveiling -- Tuesday and Wednesday before the Saturday release. As of right now, this wine has had time to develop in the barrel, and the early taste shows that this aging added a lot of earthiness and oak to the flavor. However, this wine is still very new to the bottle; the flavors are not yet melded and balanced, still struggling in their new container. It is still drinkable at this time, but it will be best left to rest in the bottle for a bit. I would easily estimate a few more months, so maybe a Christmas pairing is in order.

This blend is comprised of a popular Texas grape, Mourvedre, and the always blendable Merlot. The grapes make a nice pairing, bringing two different approaches to a wine. Without any other major grapes added, both are able to sing out. And that is perfect considering the quality of the grapes. The grapes come from Andy Timmons' Lost Draw Vineyards in the High Plains. The heritage of the grapes adds to the developing success of the blend.

Tasting

Right now, the dark fruit flavors are the powerhouse here, a dominating force throughout the entire tasting experience. They stride forth with the just the aroma. Dark fruit, especially the deeper berries (and to a lesser degree, plum) are strong from first smell to final taste. In fact, upon first tasting, the fruit is bold and heavy; it is a weight that settles in and fills everything. It is a sense of decadence with such powerful fruit.

The fruit starts to soften around mid-palate as the earth and oak begin to emerge. There is a strange dustiness to the final essence, like the ground beneath the summer sun. The earth and minerals tend toward this drier sense, playing with the hint of oak that seems just out of reach.

At this point, the fruit and earth are not well balanced. The fruit seems to rest on top of the earth, almost like a thick blanket on a cool day. This isn't unpleasant; the great flavors are clear and tasty,  drawing the taster back. But the wine is still young in the bottle. The earth has not collected and strengthened to match the fruit, and so they have not quite come together to create a more unified experience. However, towards the end, as both slowly fade, the earth is stronger, almost a match for the fruit. Here the flavors begin to weave. This was the sign I was looking for (a trait I noticed in the Vintage Texas Tannat from Bending Branch). This lush and desirable flavors are just starting to get to know one another in the bottle. Until they do, the one that comes first will remain dominate; however, with time, the other will grow stronger and join with its partner. In time, this wine will have a rich and luxurious complexity that will be a delight (just as I suspect from the Vintage Tannat).

Visual Tasting

This wine, right now, is an early summer, one that has already seen the force of the sun and the heat. The ground is dry, the loose grains rustling in a heat driven breeze. A few inches down is just more loosening dirt, lightening in color. Here it is not soil; it is not unified. However, just a little further, the ground darkens, softens, and knits together in the tightest of weaves. It is hidden and waiting for just the right moment to reach toward the sky.

And along this ground creeps dark green weeds. Clover and similar hearty plants dance along the surface of the loose dirt. The dirt can only be seen in patches, a hint visible through the skeletal lace of the tendrils and vines that reach out from the root. These tangled vines creep and crawl along the dirt, lacing their way along the surface, touching only lightly; the contact is limited. But at that root, those same vines turn into a great vein that suddenly dives deep and reaches for what hides beneath. It desires the comfort and strength of the soil; it reaches out to join with it. The two are almost one here, invisible to the sun's gaze. They hide and wait until the rains come, until the sun dims, and a new season allows them to fully be what they are meant to be.

Like the weeds that struggle through the harshest Texas summers, the wine waits until the right moment is upon it. At that time, the flavors will come together into something all its own. The weeds will wait, keeping their light dominance over the dust and soil (just as the fruit stays on top). When Fall rains arrive to soak the surface, the vein and soil below will reach up, gathering the tendrils to them, and a blanket will spread and fill the land, a carpet of green and lush scents only possible when the earth and plants are one. If we can just wait, the dust in the wine will clear, grow into a lush earthiness that will mingle and weave into the fruit to make a wine that will be one that all will agree on, unlike the two topics the name evokes.

29. The Dripping Springs Wine Commmunity

29. The Dripping Springs Wine Community
Vineyards to nurture,
passion that fashions grapes
lovingly into wine.

Each one, a place all its own,
but together, community.
 

Back in late May, Sean and I took a drive north of Highway 290 to see the four wineries in the Dripping Springs area. Our jam-packed day gave us four separate experiences: no one winery was like the other. Along this stretch of highway between Johnson City and West Austin, we were treated to a diverse tour of Texas as we visited McReynold's Wines, Westcave Cellars, Solaro Estates, and Bell Springs.

A Wine Community

What this group of wineries proves is a thought I wrote about in a previous post: community. So how are these four wineries a community? First, they are a group that works together. Texas Wine Lover, Jeff Cope,  recently mentioned this concept in a post of his when describing how many wineries treat one another: they share equipment, help each other out, etc. These wineries live up to this idea.

Helping One Another Out

At every stop along the trip, we were asked where we were headed or where we had been. If we didn't respond quick enough, the place we were currently visiting would quickly suggest the next winery we planned to visit. Most of the time, we were quick to answer. This prompted a similarly positive reply: we were told something special or complimentary about the next stop on our tour. We welcomed these recommendations. In fact, we were convinced to make an unplanned stop at the Texas Olive Oil Company, the olive oil showroom, after many recommendations from every winery.

A Unique Take

These wineries also complement the concept of community being discussed by the Texas wine bloggers. Everyone seems to agree that each blogger brings something unique to the greater community, each provides their individual perspective. In the end, one visit or one event leads to a number of diverse blogs without any distinctive repetition (for an example, see the collection of blogs pertaining to the William Chris Watermelon Thump). The same goes for these wineries; they all presented their own perspective on the wine-going experience.

The Wineries

McReyonld's

Gerald "Mac" McReynold's and his tasting room

First up was McReynold's. Here, the mood is its unique aspect. As soon as I drove onto the property, I felt like I was entering into someone's home, their private sanctuary. Everything about McReynold's exudes home. First, the owners are intimately involved in everything: Gerald (or Mac) was mowing and tending to the vineyard and Maureen presided over our tasting. Before we left, they shared a little of themselves and told us stories about the winery and vineyard; personal stories, such as knowing that the tasting room was built by the owner, adds that special touch. And for us, this felt even more like home, as both of them seemed a lot like Sean's grandparents; Mac even physically resembled Sean's grandfather.

Westcave

Westcave Cellars' tasting room

We then went to Westcave Cellars. What they have going for them is unique wines. The folks here are crafting strong representatives of the favored Texas varietals (the different Viogniers were a treat), but they are also offering a diversity and selection I have yet to see. The number of sweet wines, as well as less common ones like their White Merlot, are fun. I normally don't drink sweet wines, but the balance Westcave brings to these wines makes them drinkable even for dry-loving palates. And, though we didn't get a chance to experience it, they love to have pig roasts. I am eager to get a chance to enjoy one in the future, and I have a feeling their wines pair well with roast pork.

In back of the tasting room

Solaro

A look into the vineyards from the patio (where we had lunch)

We stopped for lunch at Solaro Estates, enjoying a meal on their extensive "patio" region around the tasting room. This is the place for a one-of-a-kind set-up; Solaro is also a working horse ranch, a sight we saw as we drove in. But they also had a hint of uniqueness in their wines. They tout their Texas-friendly varietals in single varietals, like the Tempranillo and Mourvedre, and in blends, like the Cheval 5 or the Montage.

Bell Springs

The view from the porch at Bell Springs

Finally, we stopped at Bell Springs. This winery provides ample shade. Oaks and other trees surround the tasting room, hiding the gem against a hillside. Here it felt like we were leaving behind the urban world and escaping into a Texas forest. Not only was the physical location an escape but so was the wine. Like Solaro, they chose Texas friendly varietals, but they were often experimenting with less noted ones, like the currently sold out Nebbiolo (note: this wine is not made from Texas grapes). They also have fruit-infused wines. This is similar to Fiesta Winery, but I felt the subtle touch they had in infusing allowed the wines to stand out and not the fruit.

One long day later, we found ourselves driving into Austin. We started the day at a winery that made us feel like we were enjoying a morning with family. We moved on to a modern feel with fun wines and then off to a horse ranch. Finally, we slipped away into a Texas forest. Not once did we find ourselves drinking the same old thing. As the environments changed, so did the wine. I guess the only constant was the knowledge and friendliness of the people we met.

*NOTE: I hope to write more about these great wineries in the future. Look for future posts.