WW: Duchman 2010 Aglianico

Right now, it seems Duchman Family Winery is the talk to Texas, at least those interested in Hill Country wine. This Italian styled winery boasts an incredible line-up of interesting and unique single varietal wines. These wines, mainly Italian based, are crowd pleasers. In fact, these wines can be found throughout Texas, including fine restaurants and at Whole Foods (often on tap). At the moment, it seems most are focusing on the strong whites, especially the always crisp and refreshing Vermentino and the interesting Trebbiano. The reds are just as exciting. Recently, I opened up a bottle of 2010 Aglianico. These red is not the typical sort of red; its unique flavors and their combination create another facet to the strong line-up at Duchman.

Beneath me, a stone

no moisture, just a hard stone

smooth, slick against me.

I don't move. The stone supports 

me, feels good against my feet.

Tasting

This wine is strong, especially when it comes to the more dry and natural flavors like oak and earth. These flavors are strong from the onset and soften as the wine progresses. This odd approach makes me think of grit. What I mean by that is the flavors remind me of the dryness and rough nature of grit; the wine is not gritty. When I taste such strong earth and oak, I can only think of dry soil. In a wine, this can make the taste problematic; however, with this wine, it softens as it goes along, accentuating the dryness. This dryness works well with the other flavors.

Towards the middle of the palate and to the end, other flavors weave into the earth and oak that is so pronounced up front. Dark flavors -- like those of very dark, bitter chocolate and dark, minimally sweet fruit (I can envision an aging plum or a raisin) -- mingle with the other flavors. The sweetness so often brought to a wine through the fruit flavors is lessened, allowing the other aspects of the fruit flavors to come forward. The bitter chocolate flavor seems to help with the blending; this makes it hard to clearly distinguish the other flavors from the developing taste. I was amazed by this progression.
 
At the end, there is only the faintest taste and feel of earth (it's dryness) that lingers. Before long,
even that calms and drifts away.

 

Visual Tasting

From Balcones Canyonland National Wildlife Refuge (near Marble Falls, TX and Lago Vista, TX)

No matter what I did, I kept envisioning a dry stretch of ground. The ground is dark brown, but it is dry and brittle. Interspersed in this spot are clumps of caliche; however, they are not white, exactly, but are blending into the dirt to keep a more even color. What is most notable is the clumping; the dirt gathers in large, strong clumps and pack together. And hidden in this are small, dirty rocks. These rocks are barely noticeable, but they are there if you look closely. All of this is the dryness I get from the wine, but there is a unity in the flavors -- the caliche -- and hidden gems -- the rocks -- that combine to make a strong collection.

Sunset on South Padre Island

What came to me as the night wore on, though, was the idea that this wine was like the last rays of sun at dusk. In these moments, the sky is mostly this darkening purple and navy, blending seamlessly as it turns to black. The strong, upfront sensations of the wine resemble this primary essence. But, at this point, there are those dying embers of orange and red that streak through those few clouds resting on the western horizon. These colors are that last stand of the day, but they are also not as apparent as everything else; this is the other flavors in the wine. And like the other flavors, despite their difference in color, they do blend and combine with the other colors, softening a bit to pink that turns purple and enfolds into the navy. As I drink the wine, I sense that blending of the less noticed into the dominate.

Physical sensation

What I found most interesting in this wine was the dryness. We all talk about wines being dry, but it doesn't often seem to really come through. I rarely find myself noticing that my mouth feels dry, in a sense. I had that with this wine, which I found intriguing. For me, that dryness was pleasant, like running along a bunch of smooth rocks. The rocks are most definitely dry under my feet. They are also dominating the sensations I get as I run along them. However, there is something more to the dryness. The feel is smooth. This is not rough with rock edges poking into my feet; this is smoothness that slides gently underneath my foot. The dryness in the wine creates a smooth movement like running along smooth rocks.

The Duchman Aglianico (which is just so hard to pronounce sometimes) was a puzzler, but that is the reason that it is a Wine Wednesday wine. There is something oddly pleasant about a wine that challenges one's taste buds and mind. As I spent time swishing the dark red liquid, I pondered over it. I spent sip after sip probing and exploring this unique experience. In the end,  I was left feeling all smoothed out, relaxed and comfortable. This is a great wine to spend time with, and I know it will be a great pairing wine.

16. A toast to new co-conspirators -- Updated with picture May 14, 2012

16. A toast to new co-conspirators

It only takes a drink,
a sip of wine, to cross the span
between two people.

Break the seal and pour: we form
new acquaintances each time.


I don't know what it is about wine, but somehow, I always find myself meeting and enjoying the company of new people when I am out somewhere wine related. Case in point: The Hill Country Wine and Music Festival. This past Saturday, I enjoyed several hours of trying new wines, learning about a few new wineries, and chatting with new people. It is nice to know that this interest of mine, this hobby, is one that builds bridges.

Wagon Train just south of Fredericksburg

Before I get to the wineries I wanted to share a crazy moment enroute. As we drove up 87, just before Fredericksburg, we saw a wagon train. This is what the area is all about to me: surprises. It is not uncommon to be surprised, in a good way. This was that Saturday morning's surprise.

First I'll talk about the new wineries. I was introduced to CapRock Winery in Lubbock, TX. This was a winery I was unfamiliar with. I got to their table early, so I had a chance to actually have a conversation with their representative. We chatted about their expansion, how they were getting into new markets like mine. We also talked about their wine, specifically their Tempranillo. This tangy wine is one they want to focus on; it seems Texas wineries are totally on the Tempranillo bandwagon.

Then we moved on to Sandstone Cellars in Mason, TX. The guys here were friendly and very informative. We found out that they use some of the oldest soil in Texas to grow a wide variety of less common -- like Touriga -- and more interesting varietals -- like Tempranillo. On top of great soil, they are also daring, as they are willing to make incredible blends.One of the most interesting was their new XI, a blend of  Syrah, Mourvedre, Touriga, and a hint of Voignier. This wine had complexity in its flavor; any red with a hint of Viognier will do that. They also made a great pitch for visiting. Though they aren't too far from Fredericksburg, they gave good reasons to opt for a real state and not a day trip: museums, historical sites, natural areas, and Sandstone's new wine bar. So of course, I am planning my first visit.

We finished up at Duchman Family Winery from Driftwood, TX. Now, I have visited there once before -- an odd Superbowl Sunday that was cold and rainy. When I was there, I didn't learn too much. I think the horrible weather had worn on the staff, so they weren't particularly friendly. Well, that wasn't the case on Saturday. I learned a little more about their new Vermentino; a white wine that will be quite the refreshing treat during the dog days of summer. I was also encouraged to come back out and really see the place. They have a great set-up, so I a more proper visit is on the horizon.

Wild Seed Farms

Besides wine folks, there were the other attendees. It is easy to just start chatting when wine flows. While sitting at a table enjoying a glass of wine and some Kerby Lane chips and queso, a group of middle-aged ladies joined us. We started sharing our wine experiences and other trivia. I even found out that one of the ladies' daughters lived only a few minute from me; it is such a small world. We shared some of our favorite wine notes as well, especially great places to visit. What I came to realize is that wine brings people together. And I shouldn't forget the wildflowers. Since this event was at Wildseed Farms, I had to take time to smell the flowers.

Courtyard at 4.0

Wild Seed Farms

This may seem normal to most people, but not for me. Honestly, me husband and I are relatively shy. We have to force ourselves to talk and meet new people. I'll admit I can turn it on when necessary, like at work, but it isn't easy. Now, when there is just a bit of wine around, everything changes. It just takes one sip to provide access. It seems that one drop is liquid inspiration. It provides a foundation for strangers to talk to one another. And let me say, we have started making friends of those strangers. My last two stops after the festival -- a second visit to Hilmy Cellars for the recently released Persephone and a first visit to the brand new 4.0 Cellars -- reminded me of what happens when you let wine bridge the gap. Upon my arrival at Hilmy, they welcomed me like a friend, asking about how things were and how the blog was going. At 4.0, I ran into my favorite wine guide; after a hug, we started sharing our newest wine stories. This is what wine does; it brings people together. How great is that.