Sean Fills Some Space: Saturday, 10/26/2013

Between work and an amazing round of awesome wine things to do, Robin has actually been too busy to get any wine writing done.  Since my schedule is a bit less busy, I thought I’d take some time out of my role-playing game blog to leave some comments over here.

First of all, I’d like to thank Mike and Lynn McHenry of Wedding Oak Winery for letting us stay at their beautiful home on October 26^th.  Not having to make the 2+ hour trip back down to San Antonio after a busy day along the Top of the Hill Country Wine Trail was a tremendous relief and allowed us to enjoy the area more.

The drive out to San Saba had to be one of the most pleasant and beautiful long-distance drives I’ve ever made -- even if we did pass at least a score of dead raccoons on the highways.  (Jebus Cripes, there were so many dead raccoons!)  San Saba itself is charming and we’ll have to make a weekend of just enjoying the town and its sights someday soon; we were stunned by the LCRA San Saba River Nature Park look forward to taking in more of the town and its environs. 

Saturday began by checking in at Wedding Oak Winery where Mike McHenry himself gave us our tasting.  Wedding Oak’s location, nestled right in the heart of San Saba, is gorgeous; I can’t think of a tasting room that exceeds its charm and ambience (even if a handful match it).  Winemaker Penny Adams’ work, of course, exceeds the beauty of its surroundings, slipping more toward the Italian side of reds than the French.  Wedding Oaks’ wines are athletic – playful but not immature, exuberant without being childish – in a way that makes me think they could win the FIFA World Cup.

We stopped for lunch at the Bar D Brewhouse, which was recommended to us on the strength of its home-brewed root beer (I’m celiac and so can’t drink real beer).  Honestly, they seemed a bit understaffed and our food took a good while to come.  Mine was a bit burnt, but still tasty, and Robin enjoyed her meal without quibble.  It was a good thing we weren’t in a hurry.     

From San Saba, we then drove out to Alamosa Wine Cellars where winemaker Jim Johnson stared at Robin for a couple of moments before recognizing her (“Wait… I know that hat.”).  I like wines that punch you in the face -- bold, earthy, ornery wines that swagger about like the Man with No Name – and Alamosa delivers those.  I hope that doesn’t make them sound undrinkable to people who prefer softer, fruitier wines, because they’re very, very drinkable.

We mainly stopped in at Fiesta Winery because it’s conveniently close to Alamosa, but were pleasantly surprised to discover they’ve added some actual dry red wines to their fruit-infused line-up.  Hooray!  I apologize to Pilot Knob Vineyard for not swinging by there because the next event took us out in the opposite direction…

Sandstone Cellars Winery – another one of those awesome, face-punchin’ wineries – had a “Hallowine” get-together on Saturday night where they brought in the rest of the Mason County wineries for FREE TASTINGS!  Compass Rose Cellars, Dotson-Cervantes Wines, Fly Gap Winery, and Pontotoc Vineyard were all there GIVING AWAY WINE!!  FOR FREE!!!

(Also, Santos Taqueria is awesome.)

I’m torn.  On the one hand, I am happy that Hallowine was not packed to the gills.  I don’t like crowds and I was happy to have space to breathe.  On the other hand, I am bitterly disappointed that some of the absolute best wineries in Texas were giving away free wine and the streets of Mason were not a jam-packed bacchanal.  What is wrong with you people?!

Seriously, despite all the love I have for the 290 Trail and the Texas wine industry as a whole, I really think that Mason County has the capacity to be our Bordeaux, our Napa, our breakout wine region.  There’s something distinctive about the Mason wines, something that unifies them into one distinct taste sensation (with the exception of Gotas de Oro, which is still awesome).  Maybe it’s the terroir, maybe it’s the Touriga Nacional; I just know I like it.

We also met Bill Worrell.  He's fun.  And we finally met winemaker Don Pullum in person.  He is also awesome.

Unfortunately, all of this awesome was then followed by a terrifying drive back to the McHenry’s house as we kept our paranoid eyes peeled for small, furry mammals.  We really didn’t want to add to the heap of dead raccoons.  We got back to the McHenry’s amazing, bread-and-breakfast-worthy guest suite and promptly fell asleep.

WW Review: Sandstone Cellars XI

Last Spring I attended the Hill Country Wine and Music Festival in Fredericksburg, TX. I sought out the wineries I didn't know: Fall Creek, CapRock, Duchman, and Sandstone Cellars. During the tasting, I was drawn to Sandstone Cellar's XI, a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Tourgia, and Viognier. When we finally visited, this same wine struck me again. I knew that this rare find -- a good buy at $25 -- was a wine I had to write about. This layered wine provided a complex experience that intrigued my senses and my mind.

Water Tower at Sandstone Cellars

One thing needs to be said about the wines at Sandstone Cellars: they are complicated. These are not easy-sipping wines that are drunk and forgotten about. These wines open up only to those who put in the effort. That said, the effort has an incredible pay-off. This is a journey. As Gary Jones from Texas Wine Camp puts it, "It's grown up wine."

The Tasting

Art by Bill Worrell

 The aroma is one of smoky fruit. It made me think of grilling fruit. There is that smoky edge that mingles with the sweetness of fruit; in this case, it is very dark berries. Hidden at the end of this is a tinge of tobacco, but it is hard to find without taking the time. All of these scents lead well into the actually tasting.

As I said earlier, this is a layered wine: one flavor gives way to another. The fact that the wine seems somehow light, is a surprise with all the flavors coming together. This lightness, my guess a result of the Viognier, provides a great platform for what could be very powerful flavors.

The first thing is fruit. This fruit is still a berry, but a much lighter one than the aroma. The aroma could be best described as more of a dark blackberry, but the taste is a soft strawberry. The fruit is rich and succulent, like a juicy ripe berry. This layer lures the taster in.

A smoke and earth undertone sits beneath the fruit, providing it a strong foundation. These flavors help the wine to stay dry, as well as engender a bolder sense of things. The earth -- a dry and rich sensation, is predominate, providing the boldness to the fruit -- as if the fresh tilled soil was a part of the flavor in the fruit. The smoke lingers though, helping to dry out the wine and keep it focused.

As the tasting continues, the two parts feel less like layers. It is not long before the two intermingle and blend. The two concepts become one as the rich and dry flavors settle down. This is finally extenuated by a quick end, like a crisp white wine (the Viognier maybe?).

Imagery

This wine reminds me of a late Spring, early Summer afternoon rain.  Why so specific, because the odd layered sensation that later blends is more like a rain (not a storm) at that time of the year.

An early storm from Grape Creek, Fredericksburg, TX

Layered Moment

The beam, it slants

and casts a golden filter on the gray day.

Each blade of grass, a streak of emerald,

shines and cuts through the shadows

even as it slumps and jumps

back up under a raindrop's weight.

Sitting under the large canopy,

the leaves keep out most of the rain;

I can watch the rain soften the world,

make it sleek and new. 

I can know this moment

when dark and light meet

and share a space, 

make it more than it ought to be.

These sorts of rains come in slow, creeping across the sky. In the end, it does not get dark; instead, the sky is a light gray that is permeated by sunlight. Through the soft, dark clouds, the sun slips through. This is like the layering as the wine starts to blend -- they are separate at first, but in the end, they come together.

As a storm moves in -- San Antonio, TX

What I always find so remarkable during these showers is the light. It is almost as if a filter has been put on the sun, a filter that can bring out certain colors, make them more vibrant. The grass is often the most affected, as it turns a brilliant shade of emerald that doesn't seem like it should exist. This always makes the season seem ripe, in bloom. The wine's fruit flavors and the rich earthiness mirror this.


The soft light rain that comes down isn't slow, but it isn't fast, just even paced. The average size raindrops splatter into large bursts when they first hit the ground, making the less careful observer think that the rain is bigger and heavier than it is. Slowly, the ground turns slick, and it glistens with its thick coat. This is how it feels as the wine begins to blend. The fruit is deceptive -- it seems so rich, but in the end, it is a soft coat over the earthiness that feels fresh.

Summer Storm -- San Antonio, TX Medical Center area

Finally, this brief shower cools the day; it may still feel warm, but there is a sense of coolness when breathing in and out. Of course, the coolness becomes less noticeable as the world adjusts to it. The wine's different flavors are like these; they lose their individual power as they are more united; as we adjust to the them and they us, there is a comfort and ease that follows. It is at this point that the wine can be casually sipped without such meticulous observation.


Each Sandstone Cellars wine I have had takes me on a journey. Some offer me a challenge, a hike or climb in tough terrain, some of them are more like a good game, making me concentrate and focus on a goal. XI walks me through those days when I would sit outside and watch the showers stroll in and hold us in their power for a short while before strolling away. I remember many days just marveling at the sensations: the colors, the scents, the temperatures. This wine helps me to recapture such beautiful moments and relive them any time, any day, and any season.

On it's own: Visiting Sandstone Cellars

For over half a year, I kept saying I would made the trek out 87 towards Mason. Ever since I had a taste of Sandstone Cellars, I knew I had to have more. But one thing lead to another, and I just never made it out. At the end of November, I escaped my piles of papers to unwind. What I found was a hidden gem.



 
The road stretches on --
blank space bordered by empty lands --
towards an open secret.
     
Ruby, garnet, rainbows of red
sing songs of the hand, heart, earth.






Sandstone Cellars is coming together of two enterprising men and one talented winemaker. Scott Haupert and Manny Silerio are the "proprietors" of a little slice of Mason: a tasting room, a wine bar, and Santos Taqueria. Don Pullman, one of Texas's top winemakers, creates some of the most interesting wines around.

The Tasting Room

My first stop was the tasting room for Sandstone Cellars where visitors can taste the currently available Sandstone wines and purchase wines from around the state. Scott greeted Sean and I upon our arrival and took us through a tasting of eight wines.

Top: Handmade pottery; Top shelf: Texas wines; Middle shelf: Sandstone wines; Right: Bill Worrell originals

We started with the main wines, Sandstone's VI, VII, VII, IX, and XI (they name their wine based on its release). All the wines are dry red blends relying on Texas friendly varietals made from 100% Texas grapes (or Texas apples -- see the Cider Dessert Wine).  Touriga -- a Portuguese grape -- features in most of the wines.

• VI: A 2008 blend of Touriga, Barbera, Primitivo, and Zinfandel provides a rich fruity experience with an oaky finish.
• VII:  A 2009 Touriga (one of only 2 single style wines) is a dusty wine that is full of savory smoke; this was Sean's favorite.
• VIII: A 2009 blend of Zinfandel, Touriga, and Merlot makes up the lightest wine that had a predominately fruity side.
• IX: A 2009 blend of Tempranillo and Touriga is a great contrast to the other Temp-Touriga blend in Texas (from Perissos). This wine is a more natural or rough wine, compared to the one from Perissos. There is a surprising lightness to the wine that gives it depth and complexity while still containing earth tones.
• XI: A 2010 blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Touriga, and Viognier is my favorite (a detailed post is forthcoming). This layered wine provides a journey through the Texas hill country, much like the drive to Mason is.

Note: XII is now available. This 2010 is a new more even blend of Tempranillo and Touriga (IX is 75 Temp/ 25 Touriga).

We moved on to three special wines. While sampling, we had the chance to compare the two ports.

Cider Dessert Wine

•  IV: A 2006 Vintage port that is primarily Touriga with a small amount of Tempranillo, Barbera, and Viognier. This port is one to sit and relax while drinking; it is 19.5% alcohol with high sugar. There is a hint of caramel in the abundant but not overpowering sweetness.
• XIII (I am unsure if the number is correct): This non-vintage 2010 port is still young (6 months in the bottle) with another high alcohol and sugar content. It is a lighter port -- especially with the earth tones -- but currently takes on more of a brandy feel. It reminds me of dried fruit.
• Cider Dessert Wine: This unique wine is a fortified cider made from apples also used by Argus Cidery. The brandy is soft and the fruit is mild. The bite of the cider develops overtime as spiced apple flavors -- like cinnamon -- start to come through. I served this to beer drinkers; they loved it.

Note: New cider is on the way.

In addition to great wines to taste, the tasting room is a wine shop. Sandstone's dedication to the Texas wine industry is evident in the tasting room. They make an effort to carry small, independent winemakers, especially those without an affiliated winery or tasting room. When I visited I purchased a bottle of the well received Ponotoc Tempranillo (a winery that is currently being built in the nearby area).

And if you are looking for a unique gift, look no further. Beautiful pottery handmade by Scott's mom is available. And for art afficiandos, Southwestern artist Bill Worrell has a number of works available at the tasting room. It helps that he's a local and a friend. Worrell's work can be found, outside, inside, and on the bottles at Sandstone.

Cider Dessert Wine label by Bill Worrell

Santos Taqueria

Next we took a break and had lunch at the adjoining taqueria, primarily ran by Manny's mother Santos. It was great to see wine and relaxed home-cooked food side-by-side (wine can be purchased at the restaurant, tasting room, and wine shop). The simple, tasty food from family recipes warmed us on a dreary day.Sean highly recommends the shrimp taquitos. I went with simple hard shelled tacos. The meat was well seasoned and flavorful; the bonus was the missing grease one so often finds with this sort of dish. 

The Wine Bar

We ended our day with a short visit to the wine bar where we relaxed and enjoyed a glass of Sandstone wine. Locals an regulars sat alongside first-time visitors. The regulars were very friendly and helpful. However, they mainly kept  to the "bar" while we were there; with so many in such a small place, there wasn't much room for anyone else.

With limited space, Sean and I took to the rest of wine bar. We sat in the front room (where one enters). This room is more structured with multiple tables and chairs. Despite the gathering, there was plenty of space between groups, and the walls were decorated with art that leaned toward the natural and native. The side room, which was thoroughly occupied as well, boasted comfortable couches and a more homey feel. There is also space outside in back and front, but do to the weather (it was cold and a bit damp), we stayed inside.

The view coming from Fredericksburg (side of the tasting room)

Scott and Manny were incredible hosts on a dreary November day.  This was a visit I hope to do again soon and encourage anyone heading towards Fredericksburg to take the short drive out of town to stop at Sandstone. And if all works out, nearby Ponotoc will eventually provide another reason and more Sandstone wine.

16. A toast to new co-conspirators -- Updated with picture May 14, 2012

16. A toast to new co-conspirators

It only takes a drink,
a sip of wine, to cross the span
between two people.

Break the seal and pour: we form
new acquaintances each time.


I don't know what it is about wine, but somehow, I always find myself meeting and enjoying the company of new people when I am out somewhere wine related. Case in point: The Hill Country Wine and Music Festival. This past Saturday, I enjoyed several hours of trying new wines, learning about a few new wineries, and chatting with new people. It is nice to know that this interest of mine, this hobby, is one that builds bridges.

Wagon Train just south of Fredericksburg

Before I get to the wineries I wanted to share a crazy moment enroute. As we drove up 87, just before Fredericksburg, we saw a wagon train. This is what the area is all about to me: surprises. It is not uncommon to be surprised, in a good way. This was that Saturday morning's surprise.

First I'll talk about the new wineries. I was introduced to CapRock Winery in Lubbock, TX. This was a winery I was unfamiliar with. I got to their table early, so I had a chance to actually have a conversation with their representative. We chatted about their expansion, how they were getting into new markets like mine. We also talked about their wine, specifically their Tempranillo. This tangy wine is one they want to focus on; it seems Texas wineries are totally on the Tempranillo bandwagon.

Then we moved on to Sandstone Cellars in Mason, TX. The guys here were friendly and very informative. We found out that they use some of the oldest soil in Texas to grow a wide variety of less common -- like Touriga -- and more interesting varietals -- like Tempranillo. On top of great soil, they are also daring, as they are willing to make incredible blends.One of the most interesting was their new XI, a blend of  Syrah, Mourvedre, Touriga, and a hint of Voignier. This wine had complexity in its flavor; any red with a hint of Viognier will do that. They also made a great pitch for visiting. Though they aren't too far from Fredericksburg, they gave good reasons to opt for a real state and not a day trip: museums, historical sites, natural areas, and Sandstone's new wine bar. So of course, I am planning my first visit.

We finished up at Duchman Family Winery from Driftwood, TX. Now, I have visited there once before -- an odd Superbowl Sunday that was cold and rainy. When I was there, I didn't learn too much. I think the horrible weather had worn on the staff, so they weren't particularly friendly. Well, that wasn't the case on Saturday. I learned a little more about their new Vermentino; a white wine that will be quite the refreshing treat during the dog days of summer. I was also encouraged to come back out and really see the place. They have a great set-up, so I a more proper visit is on the horizon.

Wild Seed Farms

Besides wine folks, there were the other attendees. It is easy to just start chatting when wine flows. While sitting at a table enjoying a glass of wine and some Kerby Lane chips and queso, a group of middle-aged ladies joined us. We started sharing our wine experiences and other trivia. I even found out that one of the ladies' daughters lived only a few minute from me; it is such a small world. We shared some of our favorite wine notes as well, especially great places to visit. What I came to realize is that wine brings people together. And I shouldn't forget the wildflowers. Since this event was at Wildseed Farms, I had to take time to smell the flowers.

Courtyard at 4.0

Wild Seed Farms

This may seem normal to most people, but not for me. Honestly, me husband and I are relatively shy. We have to force ourselves to talk and meet new people. I'll admit I can turn it on when necessary, like at work, but it isn't easy. Now, when there is just a bit of wine around, everything changes. It just takes one sip to provide access. It seems that one drop is liquid inspiration. It provides a foundation for strangers to talk to one another. And let me say, we have started making friends of those strangers. My last two stops after the festival -- a second visit to Hilmy Cellars for the recently released Persephone and a first visit to the brand new 4.0 Cellars -- reminded me of what happens when you let wine bridge the gap. Upon my arrival at Hilmy, they welcomed me like a friend, asking about how things were and how the blog was going. At 4.0, I ran into my favorite wine guide; after a hug, we started sharing our newest wine stories. This is what wine does; it brings people together. How great is that.