WW: Bending Branch Souzao

After my recent educational visit to Bending Branch, it has been hard to keep my mind off of their wine and work. Last week, I revisited the last vintage of their very unique Souzao. I remember my first time tasting this wine. It was a dreary and cold Sunday afternoon. Sean and I had been seeking out something new and inspiring. Our tasting at Bending Branch was exactly what we were looking for. As we wrapped our mouths around the Portuguese name, we lingered over this deep, inky wine. We were so taken by it that we took a bottle home. Since then, it has been one of our favorites. My opinion of this wine has only deepened over time.

The exact vintage of the Souzao (2009) that we recently drank is sold out at the winery -- though there are a few bottles hiding at a variety of HEB's in San Antonio and now Bulverde (I bought the bottle in question at HEB Alon Market in San Antonio when Jennifer was doing a Bending Branch tasting). After my visit, I saw the upcoming vintage in the barrels, so the next round is coming. And like this current one, it will be from all California grapes from the Silvaspoons Vineyard. But as I mentioned in previous posts, John and Bob have Souzao in the Comfort vineyard slowly growing (they are a few years from their first harvest).

Tasting Notes

The Souzao is best with a bit of time; letting it breath allows it to open up nicely, releasing the less sweet undertones. It is fine right after opening, but just a short wait (we let it sit for about half an hour) is best.

Chocolate 

The first thing that comes to mind when I drink the Souzao is a dark chocolate berry or cherry truffle. During my first few sips, the flavor that comes through cleanly is that of dark chocolate (in fact, it reminds me of the vanilla touched 80% dark chocolate they sell at the winery). This chocolate is dark and rich, but it isn't particularly bitter.  This even chocolate flavor is the foundation for the wine. Layered on top of it is a dark cherry or berry like flavor like those found in a truffle. Even this, like the chocolate, is smooth, and seems to be most noticeable at the times when the wine feels silky and soft in my mouth. Again, all I can think of is a well crafted truffle.

This chocolate also reminds me of Christmas. That may seem strange, but during Christmas, chocolate takes over my kitchen. For two days or so, I melt, mold, and experiment with chocolate. The time I spend working with the chocolate reminds me of this wine. This is a free form time for me. Chocolate gets on everything -- my hands, my arms, my face, the refrigerator door, the counters, the floors, etc. -- and it quickly solidifies in the cool kitchen (I actually chill the kitchen when working with chocolate). Slick, shiny streaks of chocolate glisten under the kitchen lights. The chocolate essence found in the Souzao is like the streaks of smooth chocolate dotting my landscape. It is everywhere but not the dominating force; it is just out of the corner of the eye, but it is definitely there.

Autumn

A brown leaf drifts down;

it settles in a pile 

with the reds and golds.  

A breeze whistles through the leaves;

and the brown leaf flies away.

This wine is more than a dark cherry chocolate truffle; there is something cool about it. The primary image I get is autumn. Now, I am eagerly awaiting fall; the heat and returning drought is depressing, and fall is the answer to that. Fall is a time that represents so much. It is a time of change, from warm to cool, from green to chestnut. Souzao is a wine that seems like it should be spicy but comes across more as cool; it seems as if it should be lively and vibrant but is instead subtle and sneaky. But there is more to the wine. It isn't just the change, it is what fall changes to.

When I drink the Souzao, I can sense the first cool breezes of fall. Under the last visages of the summer sun, as the day turns to evening, the breezes creep in. They sweep around a corner, and they are upon me without warning. But they are a cool kiss on my skin; they release me from the warmth and soothe me. They make me open my eyes wider; they make me want to seek them out. I want to keep them close, to follow them if I have to. As the wine moves, I feel this sense of surprising coolness; it is the hint of cool at autumn dusk.

It is also the leaves of autumn. It is the changing colors. The green leaves turn to gold, to orange, red, and finally to a nutty brown. They are subtle tones that meld into one another, all related and held together by the primary colors of yellow and red. In the wine, the chocolate is a flavor that lingers throughout, never fully slipping away.

The Souzao is also the leaves themselves. The leaves' colors make them seem earthy, but they are not. They are light and free but with substance. The leaves of the trees have weight as I collect them at my feet, but they also take flight at a moment's notice. The Souzao is a wine of weight; this is clear in its deep, inky tones. But the wine is subtle and freeing; it isn't heavy like so many reads, rich with earthy flavors and heavy with spice. Underneath the weight of the chocolate something rests, but it is illusive, like the leaves. Is it a autumnal spice; is it a hint of oak? I can't say, but it is there and not there.

The Souzao is both known and is not known. It is a wine I think I have grasped as I enjoy the truffle, but I am also searching for the subtler tones hiding just beneath. To me, this wine is autumn. And in the heat of late summer, I look to autumn for release. And I am eager for the autumn cool, the autumn colors, and the return of the Bending Branch Souzao.

34: A Walk in the Vineyard: Bending Branch Part 2

34: A Walk in the Vineyard
Heaven is the sun
filling each leaf and the rain
that quenches are one.

The earth holds each vine,
a tender embrace of soil
and root; they are one.

Man's dedication:
a lover's touch, a parent's
guiding hand are one.

Heaven, earth, and man are one
as they nourish and tend the vine.

Hilltop vineyards at Bending Branch

When I last visited Bending Branch, I could not have planned to learn what I did. Not only did I have a great time there (see the earlier post for the day's events), but I was given a number of great lessons on wine. When Bob Young showed Sean and I around the vineyard, I leaned about harvesting, their crush process, fermentation, and bottling. During lunch, John Rivenburgh explained their organic approach to growing grapes. I never expected to learn so much about wine and especially about growing the grapes.

Tannat just before the 2012 harvest

While we drove by the many vineyards and into the trellised Tannat vineyard, Bob told me about the growing and harvesting of the grapes. First, Bending Branch is interested in finding out what grapes grow well in Texas; to do this, they must take risks and experiment. The Tannat, which was not a grape people really talked about until Bending Branch brought it much needed attention, is an example of how their choices at Bending Branch have lead to success. Not only are they growing it on the property, but it is growing in some of best vineyards in the High Plains. And of course it is spreading. Another experiment that seems to be doing well so fair is the Souzão. Though the grapes used in the Souzão wine primarily come from the Silvaspoons Vineyard in California, that could change with the recent planting of the grape on their property. And even as we road through the vineyard, we saw the newest experiment: Bonarda. Bob explained that they are trying a single row to see how it will go; if it succeeds, they will plant more.

Young vines

In addition to planting lesser known varietals in the vineyard at Bending Branch, they also take different approaches to growing. A number of articles and blogs have discussed the Roman style growth being used on some of the Tannat in the vineyard (they are using it on varietals as well). This approach allows the grapes to reach upward (growing vertically) rather than along a trellis (which is more commonly used by vineyards and dominates most of the Bending Branch vineyard). As for why they are doing it? Well, why not? It does have a natural inclination to grow this way, so allowing it do so could aid in the success of the vines. Even with this technique in use, Bob and John still have most of the varietals, including a quantity of Tannat, grown in the more traditionally horizontal way.

Tannat growing vertically in the roman style

What is most interesting about the vineyard is the organic approach used to planting and care. John Rivenburgh told us that they make use of biodynamics. One key element of this technique is the creation of a balanced ecosystem. When the ecosystem is in balance, all the parts can do well. Recently, John went to Spotswood Vineyard in California to learn from and share with other organic grape growers. He explained that one of the main concerns was soil structure. While planting, they must think about helping the soil develop and obtain the correct nutrition. One way that is done is through coverage crops. These crops, that are native to the area, help keep the soil in balance. These crops can been seen all through the Bending Branch property. On my vineyard tour, Bob pointed out the wildflowers that they specifically allow to grow in and around the vineyard. This is only a start; John has ideas about other native plants we hopes to plant in the coming years to help the ecosystem. And many of the plants they are considering will also add to the appearance of the property.

Yellow wildflowers growing with the grapes

The balanced ecosystem goes beyond the soil. One of the crucial elements John discussed was insects. Many farmers are very concerned about insect problems, and I know I am always on the lookout for new ant colonies appearing in my own yard. In many cases, we would just pull out the chemicals to rid oursleves of the pests. In organic farming, that just isn't done. So how are they kept away? First, the crop diversity from the coverage crops can provide homes and food that are better suited towards the pest. If the pest insects can get exactly what they want with ease, why try to work their way into a less friendly crop like the grapes? The native plants redirect the pests away from the crops and towards the plants specifically planted for them.

The insect topic doesn't end there. Of course, all farmers are interested in one specific insect, the bee; however, it isn't the only useful insect out there. The beneficial insects, those that eat other bugs, are useful too. At Bending Branch, John actually raises and releases beneficials like lady bugs. John encourages other native beneficials as well. All-in-all, these bugs help to keep the other insects at bay. I can honestly say this is working. When we toured the vineyard, I saw very few bugs. I saw bees in the largest quantity -- John isn't in a rush to start beekeeping as one of his nearby neighbors already does -- and saw very few others. I did see one ant on a trellis, but I can't remember seeing much more than that.

Bob Young simulating juice analysis

 One word of warning about all this great organic farming: it is time consuming and precarious. John has to spend a lot of his time in the vineyard.  There is no easy answer with organics except work. At Bending Branch, they have to stay on top of the grapes and the entire ecosystem. This is not to say that more commercial vineyards aren't a lot of work -- all farming is -- but they have to see to every little detail all the time. This also means they have to stay ever vigilant. In the last few weeks, they have had to test the grapes a lot. They have to very closely watch the grapes and harvest them perfectly. To help them with this task, Bob invested in a machine that tests the grapes for their Brix, their pH, and other aspects needed to decide when to harvest. With just a bit of juice, the machine analyzes the sample and sends the results straight to their computer. And with organic farming, they may need to do this more than once a day, and they need the results immediately. This one little machine, which was quite expensive and one of the first in Texas, helps Bending Branch accomplish at least this one goal with ease.

Ready for grape juice analysis

At Bending Branch, the grapes and the wine are everything. Carefully cared for and lovingly tended, each grape on each vine is brought to its full potential in the most natural and harmonious of ways. By the time the grapes are harvested, everyone's dedication is condensed down to pulp and its juice. As I tasted one of the Tannat grapes, I could sense this. I never expected the juice to burst forth from the taut skin. I quickly sucked the grape in, not wanting to lose one drop of the nectar it held. And if the attention in the field was an indication, than I knew the attention in the winery would match.

NOTE: Making the Wine: Bending Branch Part 3 is COMING!

33. Bending Branch Part 1: Visiting

33. Visiting
Up, the hill proceeds,
reaching for the sky and clouds
with each vine and root.

When I look out, my eyes see
the joys and dreams of heaven.

Looking out over the vineyards

A number of articles recently, even this past week, have been highlighting Comfort, TX area winery Bending Branch. It seems everyone is enamored with their Tannat wines. In June, they made quite a showing at the Lone Star International Wine Competition, fetching some key awards, particularly the Best in Show award for the International Red Wine Category with the 2009 Silver Tannat. This past Saturday (July 28) they decided to celebrate with a party -- live jazz from Phil Grota and friends, comfort food from San Antonio's Mars Mobile Kitchen, and special tastings of the two award winning Tannats -- the Silver Tannat and the now unavailable EM Tannat (brought out of the library for the event). Sean and I took this opportunity to pay a return visit. Founders Bob and Brenda Young invited us to learn about and experience their winery firsthand. The day ended up being an incredible one.

Up close and personal with the Lone Star awards

This visit was one of my all-time favorite wine experiences. It was so nice to be welcomed into the winery; even before we met with Jennifer Beckmann-- who set up the visit with the Young's and winemaker John Rivenburgh (Bob and Brenda's son-in-law) -- we enjoyed a tasting with the always pleasant and friendly stewardesses in the tasting room. Jennifer greeted us as soon as she had a chance, and before long, we were getting to know Bending Branch better thanks to Bob and Brenda. This delightful day turned into one of the most informative and eye-opening experiences I have yet had. I left with so much information -- about Bending Branch and wine making -- that I knew it would take awhile to sort it all out. And so, I have decided to breakdown what I learned and share it over multiple posts.

The Wines

This relatively new winery is on the verge of truly exciting things. For wine drinkers, the most important is the wine itself.

Bob Young informing me about Bending Branch's bottling

 In the tasting room

During our tasting, we learned that there will be an estate Picpoul Blanc soon (they harvested their first block last year, and it is currently in the barrels). This year's Picpoul harvest is already done, so we can expect more Texas Picpoul in the future. Next, this year's 2010 High Plains Rose' has been developing in the bottle. During the tasting, I noticed that it was growing smoother, and the reds that make it up are starting to show through nicely, creating a fuller wine. The other treat in the tasting room right now is the Chloe Cuvee (named for the Rivenburgh's daughter). We happily paid the $3 for a taste and the nearly $18 for a glass, but we stopped short of the $75 for a bottle of this limited edition wine (only 50 cases). This red blend brings together Petite Sirah, Tannat, and Souzao in a bright and bold wine. The dark flavors are subtle and captivating. I lingered over my glass, so I could appreciate the warmth and depth hidden within.

On the horizon

Bob took Sean and I back into the vineyard. As he drove us up the hill from the tasting room, we looked out into the rolling hills and were eager to find out about what was next for this winery. Bob had already told us that, before the year is out, they will have eighteen different wines. My appetite was whet. Of course the soon-to-be-harvested Tannat sample that Bob shared helped.

Tannat just about ready to harrvest

Upcoming releases at Bending Branch will include their first forays into Texas' current favorite, Tempranillo (and if the press is right, they are ahead of the next curve with their already established Tannat). This High Plains Tempranillo comes from great vineyards; I noticed some Tempranillo barrels labeled Newsom in the barrel room. They will also bring out a High Plains Cabernet Sauvignon; their last Cab has been sold out for awhile, and this will take its place. There is another vintage of the Texas Tannat, 2010, due out soon. And the Tannat will also see new life as a port-style wine (Sean is ready for that).

Tannat straight from the barrel

What is best about all the upcoming releases is that much more of this wine is Texas grown and Texas made. In the past, a large number of Bending Branch's wines came from California grapes, from vineyards Bob and Johnathan had relationships with (all California grown grapes are labeled with the vineyard name on the bottle). But now, the Texas grapes will be making more of a showing. The last few years have finally seen the estate grapes come into their own, as well as increase in number. And to increase the production, Bending Branch has formed partnerships with High Plains growers, working with growers like Vijay Reddy, who has been supplying them with some of their Tannat, as well as the Newsoms who are taking part in a cooperative planting of Petite Sirah and Tannat with Bending Branch. This was exciting news.

Souzao in the barrel

 Other wines and grapes are making their way into the Bending Branch menu. The sold out Souzao, primarily from California grower Silvaspoons Vineyard in Alta Mesa, will be back. For now, it is one of the few reds mainly from California, but in a few years, some of that Souzao will be Texas grown (they planted some onsite this year). For me, I am glad to see the return of this unique wine. When I first tasted it, I enjoyed its darkness, and I can't wait till the next vintage.

Getting to hand crush Malbec during one of its three daily crushes

The vineyard and production provided insight to other varietals and blend possibilities for the future, including Mourvedre, Malbec, and Anglianico. They are testing Bonarda (a grape originally found in Italy but is now a rising star, and mainly found, in Argentina). I can personally attest to the Malbec, as I had a chance to work with the fermentation of some, but I'll save that for another post. It is clear that a lot is in store at Bending Branch.

Things to come

Not only did we learn about the new wines about to make a showing at Bending Branch, but we were told about future plans for events and fundraisers. Brenda Young enlightened us to what the winery has planned.

September will see a new event that Brenda hopes will be among their annual events (joining the Derby Party in May). A tennis pro-am fundraiser will take place to help the local Boys and Girls Club. Five pros have been invited to compete, and a number of amateurs will get a chance to play. This multi-day event will also include more than just matches; a young, local tennis player will showcase her skills, and children from the Boys and Girls Club will get to participate in tennis clinics and act as ball girls and ball boys at the matches. Helping the kids is the top priority here, but Bob is excited to enjoy one of his favorite sports. Also, the much admired tennis court (which no one can miss as they park) will get some great use.

Dining space on the porch; overlooking the tasting room

In addition to the tournament, there will be a dinner at the Young's residence. Bob and Brenda gave us a tour of their beautiful home, and we saw where the dinner will likely take place. They have an outdoor kitchen and seating area that looks down on to the tasking room. There is also a large courtyard. These areas will be able to provide ample seating for this additional fundraiser, not to mention provide beautiful views of the nearby rolling hills.

Final Thoughts

Brenda Young sharing stories in her kitchen

I cannot say how appreciative I am to have had this wonderful experience. What I learned touring the vineyard, the crush pad, the lab, and the offices provided me a much greater understanding of wine making, making it very clear this is science and art at its best. I will forever be indebted to Bob for teaching me so much and providing this great experience.

The personal touch that Brenda brought to the visit added to the impact of this visit. She and Bob were kind enough to give us a tour of their home. The modern villa -- as I see it -- stretched out along a rise in the hill. Inside, the joys and loves of the Youngs' are enshrined. Bob pointed out their prized Italian oven painted at the Ferrari plant and the wood floor from Colorado; Brenda shared the history behind the checkered tiles in their hallway. Personal joys, such as the French Laundry (alluding to the restaurant) that is tucked behind the kitchen with everything a person needs to care for clothes and a beautiful screened in porch looking out into the yard where the Youngs can watch their grandchildren play, make up this wonderful home.

The Ferrari painted oven

Tile floor moved from the Youngs' last home in Atlanta, GA

We even enjoyed lunch down among the trees (provided by Mars Mobile Kitchen). Here we had the chance to really get to know the Bending Branch family, to visit as my grandmother likes to say. We even learned that not just Bending Branch is ready to expand, but so is Comfort. Brenda told us all about the new opportunities happening in Comfort. This growth is great for Comfort and its surrounding communities.


All of this is just the beginning. Bending Branch is poised for something big. The additional deck being built next to the tasting room is sign of great things to come. I am eager to see. I hope to see everyone there as this winery makes it mark in the history of Texas wine.

NOTE: I learned so much from this visit that this is only the beginning. In the VERY near future, I will write about what Bob taught me about Bending Branch's growing and wine making  processes, as well as the lessons learned on the organic approach used at Bending Branch (thanks to Jonathan).