A Texas Lip Stinger: Bending Branch Winery’s First Texas Picpoul Blanc

The original and complete article can be found at Texas Wine & Trail Magazine.

Texas is definitely home to unique grape and wine varieties, and as of July, Texas can now put the little known Picpoul Blanc on the list. On a relatively mild July night, invited guests and wine club members came out to Bending Branch Winery in Comfort, Texas to try the first ever Texas grown Picpoul Blanc. The small first production – 24 cases – went quickly. This award winning wine – it earned a silver medal in the Lone Star International Wine Competition in June – truly represents the strength and ingenuity of Texas grape growing and winemaking.

All 3 Bending Branch Picpouls & Signature Poster

Bending Branch and Picpoul Blanc

Bending Branch Picpoul Blancs

 From the beginning, Bending Branch made the Picpoul Blanc one of their signature wines. The first Picpoul, and the one visitors to the winery sample, is sourced from Hall Ranch Vineyards in California. This wine is an important part of the winery’s portfolio, along with the Tannat. Like the Tannat, there has been some experimentation (last year saw a Tannat port). A few years back, Bending Branch began to age some of the Picpoul in some slightly used bourbon barrels to create the Single Barrel Picpoul Blanc; this particular version of the wine is used in making Mint Juleps for the winery’s annual Kentucky Derby party. And like the Tannat, winemakers Bob Young and John Rivenburgh wanted to bring this grape to Texas, and they accomplished this with the new Estate Picpoul.

Single Barrel Picpoul Mint Julep, 2013 Kentucky Derby Party

Bending Branch’s Estate Picpoul

As for this new wine, one guest remarked that the Estate Picpoul holds true to the variety, and of course, it was a pleasant wine for summer in Texas. One of the most remarkable elements is the acid. This particular vintage has noticeable acid from beginning to end, adding a bite and crispness that is refreshing. In fact, the wine almost seems as if it was carbonated; the acid creates an effervescent mouth feel.

Figure 4: Bending Branch Estate Picpoul

As for the aroma, it is a soft, subtly herb scent with a hint of lemon, maybe lemongrass. This moved well into the taste, which is predominately lemon. For me, the wine is more of a sour, rather than sweet, lemonade. This lemonade flavor is the understated sort, almost as if it has a mild hint of lime; at one point it makes me think of a bit of lemonade with Sprite. While talking to other guests and Jennifer Beckmann, the winery’s Director of Marketing and Certified Sommelier, we turned to the other flavors, particularly the herbaceous element of the wine. Jennifer described the sort of lemons used in hot toddies –ones steeped with a cinnamon stick. I think this description fits well, as it suggests the pleasant but refined sour lemon taste with the balance and lightness created by the herbs.

Estate Picpoul

The Estate Picpoul, the first estate wine for Bending Branch, was a hit at the release party. The strength of this estate grown wine has made fans of the winery eager for more. Later this year, Bending Branch will also release an Estate Tannat, joining the RF, EM, and Texas Tannat, as well as a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Aglianico, and Tempranillo. This is good news for Texas wine.

Unfortunately, this first round of Texas grown Picpoul will have a rather limited audience (there were 4 cases as of this morning, July 14). Hopefully, it is only a taste of things to come because this bright wine with delicate tones matches well with Texas. There is something bold in the acid as it stings the lips and incites the taste buds. The subtle, harmonious flavors are not so different from a scenic drive through the hill country. Bending Branch has added another wine to Texas’ extensive portfolio, one that has great potential.

A Day at the Races: Third Annual Kentucky Derby Party

This year I was prepared. I knew exactly what to expect and what it would take to win. I plotted out my success, carefully planning what my newest wine hat would look like. I wanted to make sure I captured the most glorious of prizes: Best Wine Themed Hat at Bending Branch's Third Annual Kentucky Derby Party.

Me and my hat

I won't bore you with the details, the days it took to build my newest bare hat into a collage of wine and the Texas hill country. I will say that drilling holes through corks to make a hat band was tiresome, messy, and difficult. However, I am pleased with my end result -- a movable hat band showcasing corks from wineries throughout Texas. Then there were the nights I pondered what flowers to put on and where, what about the grapes and grape leaves. And with the final night, I made the final touches to make the hat over the top, wine crazy. And of course it was all worth it; I took the prize I sought.


But to say the hat contest is all the Kentucky Derby party is about just doesn't say much. This year saw a much larger, diverse turn-out, and it also saw some of the most snappy dressing I have seen -- the weather was so nice it was easy to be a bit more in the spirit. Sean and I happily chatted with all those folks we know and see often at Bending Branch. And this year, we met even more wonderful people who were coming out to the winery and/or the party for the first time. Like last year, people mingled and chatted the day away, sharing in a way that I only see people do over a glass of wine. Somehow, at this event, walls always break down and people get to know one another. I realize my hat is always a great ice breaker -- I posed for a number of photos -- but there is something about the atmosphere that makes it easy to just introduce yourself to someone and start a new conversation.

Folks gathered to watch the parade of hats

As the throng of contestants gathered for the hat contest, this congenial atmosphere was most apparent. We shared our inspiration for our hats, as well as all of our tricks to making them look just right. I heard many of the folks complain about the weight; they regretted using a lot of glue to hold the hats together. Really, my hat should have been heavier (I wore a grape vine train), but I opt for a clear jewelry thread and sew everything on. My approach takes longer, but it makes the work last longer and doesn't add the weight of glue. And as we chatted, one-by-one we made the walk in front of the tasting room. And after we walked, and waited for the results, we cheered one another on, supporting each other. Though the contest is a competition, it is one of the most supportive, friendliest ones I have ever encountered.

Hat Contestants Post-Walk

The hat contest isn't the only game in town. This year's horseshoe contest took a while to get filled -- Bob Young asked me at least twice if I wanted to give it a try. Despite all the hesitation, the game turned into quite a competition. The game went on longer than anticipated. And after a long hard fight, a winner finally emerged.


With all the frivolity about us, it could be hard to settle in and enjoy the less active entertainments. It wasn't hard to find a comfortable shady spot to enjoy a nice breeze, cooler than normal May temperatures, and even cooler live jazz. And as the day wore on, Fresh Hot Brown sandwiches and Bourbon balls were quick to satisfy. And as always, single barrel Picpoul Blanc mint juleps quenched our thirst. This year, the juleps were a wonderful balance of flavors; I found mine so smooth that I drank it all without noticing.

Single Barrel Picpoul Blanc Mint Julep

There was a major change from last year. For the race last year, we all huddled on the patio in front of the tasting room. Though the crowd wasn't as big as this year's, we still couldn't fit in that space. So John Rivenburgh rearranged his garage into a viewing space. The mass gathered into John's three car garage where there was ample seating and places to rest a bottle or glass. Though it did get a bit stuffy, it provided more space and better viewing for the larger crowd. It was easy to see the horses parade on to the track, as well as to see my chosen horses lose.

Gathering to watch the race

The year's party seemed to have a great sense of class: the men dressed in their hats and bow-ties, or in Sean and John's case Guaybera shirts, and the ladies sported light and fetching spring dresses. From the moment we arrived till the moment we left, Sean and I found ourselves caught up in a good time, sharing it with wonderful people. Here's to next year.

33. Bending Branch Part 1: Visiting

33. Visiting
Up, the hill proceeds,
reaching for the sky and clouds
with each vine and root.

When I look out, my eyes see
the joys and dreams of heaven.

Looking out over the vineyards

A number of articles recently, even this past week, have been highlighting Comfort, TX area winery Bending Branch. It seems everyone is enamored with their Tannat wines. In June, they made quite a showing at the Lone Star International Wine Competition, fetching some key awards, particularly the Best in Show award for the International Red Wine Category with the 2009 Silver Tannat. This past Saturday (July 28) they decided to celebrate with a party -- live jazz from Phil Grota and friends, comfort food from San Antonio's Mars Mobile Kitchen, and special tastings of the two award winning Tannats -- the Silver Tannat and the now unavailable EM Tannat (brought out of the library for the event). Sean and I took this opportunity to pay a return visit. Founders Bob and Brenda Young invited us to learn about and experience their winery firsthand. The day ended up being an incredible one.

Up close and personal with the Lone Star awards

This visit was one of my all-time favorite wine experiences. It was so nice to be welcomed into the winery; even before we met with Jennifer Beckmann-- who set up the visit with the Young's and winemaker John Rivenburgh (Bob and Brenda's son-in-law) -- we enjoyed a tasting with the always pleasant and friendly stewardesses in the tasting room. Jennifer greeted us as soon as she had a chance, and before long, we were getting to know Bending Branch better thanks to Bob and Brenda. This delightful day turned into one of the most informative and eye-opening experiences I have yet had. I left with so much information -- about Bending Branch and wine making -- that I knew it would take awhile to sort it all out. And so, I have decided to breakdown what I learned and share it over multiple posts.

The Wines

This relatively new winery is on the verge of truly exciting things. For wine drinkers, the most important is the wine itself.

Bob Young informing me about Bending Branch's bottling

 In the tasting room

During our tasting, we learned that there will be an estate Picpoul Blanc soon (they harvested their first block last year, and it is currently in the barrels). This year's Picpoul harvest is already done, so we can expect more Texas Picpoul in the future. Next, this year's 2010 High Plains Rose' has been developing in the bottle. During the tasting, I noticed that it was growing smoother, and the reds that make it up are starting to show through nicely, creating a fuller wine. The other treat in the tasting room right now is the Chloe Cuvee (named for the Rivenburgh's daughter). We happily paid the $3 for a taste and the nearly $18 for a glass, but we stopped short of the $75 for a bottle of this limited edition wine (only 50 cases). This red blend brings together Petite Sirah, Tannat, and Souzao in a bright and bold wine. The dark flavors are subtle and captivating. I lingered over my glass, so I could appreciate the warmth and depth hidden within.

On the horizon

Bob took Sean and I back into the vineyard. As he drove us up the hill from the tasting room, we looked out into the rolling hills and were eager to find out about what was next for this winery. Bob had already told us that, before the year is out, they will have eighteen different wines. My appetite was whet. Of course the soon-to-be-harvested Tannat sample that Bob shared helped.

Tannat just about ready to harrvest

Upcoming releases at Bending Branch will include their first forays into Texas' current favorite, Tempranillo (and if the press is right, they are ahead of the next curve with their already established Tannat). This High Plains Tempranillo comes from great vineyards; I noticed some Tempranillo barrels labeled Newsom in the barrel room. They will also bring out a High Plains Cabernet Sauvignon; their last Cab has been sold out for awhile, and this will take its place. There is another vintage of the Texas Tannat, 2010, due out soon. And the Tannat will also see new life as a port-style wine (Sean is ready for that).

Tannat straight from the barrel

What is best about all the upcoming releases is that much more of this wine is Texas grown and Texas made. In the past, a large number of Bending Branch's wines came from California grapes, from vineyards Bob and Johnathan had relationships with (all California grown grapes are labeled with the vineyard name on the bottle). But now, the Texas grapes will be making more of a showing. The last few years have finally seen the estate grapes come into their own, as well as increase in number. And to increase the production, Bending Branch has formed partnerships with High Plains growers, working with growers like Vijay Reddy, who has been supplying them with some of their Tannat, as well as the Newsoms who are taking part in a cooperative planting of Petite Sirah and Tannat with Bending Branch. This was exciting news.

Souzao in the barrel

 Other wines and grapes are making their way into the Bending Branch menu. The sold out Souzao, primarily from California grower Silvaspoons Vineyard in Alta Mesa, will be back. For now, it is one of the few reds mainly from California, but in a few years, some of that Souzao will be Texas grown (they planted some onsite this year). For me, I am glad to see the return of this unique wine. When I first tasted it, I enjoyed its darkness, and I can't wait till the next vintage.

Getting to hand crush Malbec during one of its three daily crushes

The vineyard and production provided insight to other varietals and blend possibilities for the future, including Mourvedre, Malbec, and Anglianico. They are testing Bonarda (a grape originally found in Italy but is now a rising star, and mainly found, in Argentina). I can personally attest to the Malbec, as I had a chance to work with the fermentation of some, but I'll save that for another post. It is clear that a lot is in store at Bending Branch.

Things to come

Not only did we learn about the new wines about to make a showing at Bending Branch, but we were told about future plans for events and fundraisers. Brenda Young enlightened us to what the winery has planned.

September will see a new event that Brenda hopes will be among their annual events (joining the Derby Party in May). A tennis pro-am fundraiser will take place to help the local Boys and Girls Club. Five pros have been invited to compete, and a number of amateurs will get a chance to play. This multi-day event will also include more than just matches; a young, local tennis player will showcase her skills, and children from the Boys and Girls Club will get to participate in tennis clinics and act as ball girls and ball boys at the matches. Helping the kids is the top priority here, but Bob is excited to enjoy one of his favorite sports. Also, the much admired tennis court (which no one can miss as they park) will get some great use.

Dining space on the porch; overlooking the tasting room

In addition to the tournament, there will be a dinner at the Young's residence. Bob and Brenda gave us a tour of their beautiful home, and we saw where the dinner will likely take place. They have an outdoor kitchen and seating area that looks down on to the tasking room. There is also a large courtyard. These areas will be able to provide ample seating for this additional fundraiser, not to mention provide beautiful views of the nearby rolling hills.

Final Thoughts

Brenda Young sharing stories in her kitchen

I cannot say how appreciative I am to have had this wonderful experience. What I learned touring the vineyard, the crush pad, the lab, and the offices provided me a much greater understanding of wine making, making it very clear this is science and art at its best. I will forever be indebted to Bob for teaching me so much and providing this great experience.

The personal touch that Brenda brought to the visit added to the impact of this visit. She and Bob were kind enough to give us a tour of their home. The modern villa -- as I see it -- stretched out along a rise in the hill. Inside, the joys and loves of the Youngs' are enshrined. Bob pointed out their prized Italian oven painted at the Ferrari plant and the wood floor from Colorado; Brenda shared the history behind the checkered tiles in their hallway. Personal joys, such as the French Laundry (alluding to the restaurant) that is tucked behind the kitchen with everything a person needs to care for clothes and a beautiful screened in porch looking out into the yard where the Youngs can watch their grandchildren play, make up this wonderful home.

The Ferrari painted oven

Tile floor moved from the Youngs' last home in Atlanta, GA

We even enjoyed lunch down among the trees (provided by Mars Mobile Kitchen). Here we had the chance to really get to know the Bending Branch family, to visit as my grandmother likes to say. We even learned that not just Bending Branch is ready to expand, but so is Comfort. Brenda told us all about the new opportunities happening in Comfort. This growth is great for Comfort and its surrounding communities.


All of this is just the beginning. Bending Branch is poised for something big. The additional deck being built next to the tasting room is sign of great things to come. I am eager to see. I hope to see everyone there as this winery makes it mark in the history of Texas wine.

NOTE: I learned so much from this visit that this is only the beginning. In the VERY near future, I will write about what Bob taught me about Bending Branch's growing and wine making  processes, as well as the lessons learned on the organic approach used at Bending Branch (thanks to Jonathan).

17. A Summer Day

Me and my hat.

17. A Summer Day

The wine bottle is
my twin: inside, a sense of cool
lingers but drips with sweat.

From our shady spot, looking towards the tents.

Saturday the fifth, I braved the already summer heat to join the festivities at Bending Branch Winery (see my live blog post Bending Branch Derby Party). My husband and co-conspirator Sean, from Wine and Savages (a role playing -- thinking D&D -- and wine blog), helped me blog the day away. When we arrived, a little before three, everything was in full swing: wine was flowing, food was available, and the jazz was swinging. People spread across the lawn at Bending Branch, collecting in every shady spot. Despite the heat, we were all set to have a good time.

And that is the thing: the heat. It was a bad Saturday afternoon. Temperatures soared into the 90s quickly, which might not have been as bad, but humidity went with it (we saw incredibly fierce thunderstorms about ten hours later that left several inches of rain throughout the area). The heat was oppressive, which left me with only one option: white wine. As a primarily red drinker, I am always a bit leery about drinking a lot of white, but things turned out well.

First was a bottle of Picpoul Blanc -- also covered at Wine and Savages with a picture of my hat. The "lip-stinger," as they refer to it at Bending Branch, was a good way to start. This dryish white was refreshing. It had enough fruitiness to make typical white wine drinkers happy -- the notes of ripe peaches and other softer stone fruits (like apricots). Of course, it also hints at apples -- especially the golden delicious and other lighter green varieties -- and pears. There is a subtle sugary taste that is very fruit forward. This flavor goes well with summer. In fact, early peaches are already coming up in the areas around Bending Branch -- many of Fredericksburg's and Stonewall's farms had fresh peaches for sale at roadside stands this weekend. But it isn't only fruit forward. This wine has a hint of acid -- hence the "lip-stinger" title -- that lessens the sugary tasting punch. The drinker is left with a more even flavor, one that doesn't just sit in the mouth (like sweeter whites do) or just slip by (like a dry white). A gentle, refreshing aftertaste is left. And in summer, this is much appreciated. The only problem, even with some cold help (the folks at Bending Branch provided cold packs for the whites), the wine warmed quickly. Luckily, this did not hurt the flavor; it became softer, which was refreshing in its own way.

Next was the Mint Juleps. No hard liquor here; this wine-based variety was light and airy. The single barrel Blanc used was subtle and soft. With crushed mint and ice added, the drink became even lighter. This is something a person could easily drink all day. The concoction was simple and light. It only hinted at sweetness; I feel the mint and ice diluted the sugar and made the drink more palatable for red drinkers. However, the mint added a zing not found in whites, something with a hint of complexity. The drinker had a bit more weight thanks to the mint, but not so much that it didn't go well on a summers day.

And yes, as a red drinker, I finished the day with the 2009 Tannat RF, 1840. This wine is smooth and silky. I would hate to say this, but it is a sexy red. The fruit is smooth and subtle, same as the rich tannins. One would think a wine named for tannins would be very heavy, but for some reason, these folks have a smooth wine. I had a feeling the smooth nature of the red would be okay for such a hot day, and I was right. The spicier Souzao would have been a bit problematic, but the Tannat was just right. Now I did consider the Texas Tannat -- Bending Branch uses California grapes for the Tannat I was drinking -- but it is not as smooth; it is rough like the landscape. And the landscape out there is a mess of hills -- up and down, and all around. But despite the un-eveness of everything, it is beautiful. The oncoming drought hasn't quite torched the area: soft green rolls dotted with the Spring's last wildflowers break up large canopied trees. It still feels lush, and that matches the Texas Tannat.

The winners. I lost to the lady on the far right.

Some of the crowd watching the Derby.

The day wound down with a hat contest -- I lost to the most incredible and over-the-top wine themed hat (mine was just too restrained and elegant) -- and the Kentucky Derby. Despite my loss, I am pleased with my hat, and so I have decided to make it my wine going hat. So, if you see the hat at a Texas winery, than you have found me (so come say hello). My husband Sean's hat was a fanciful creation -- he was the only adult male to participate. His hat was a tribute to the race and used generic My Little Pony cut outs -- see "My Stupid Hat". It was crazy and fun. Of course, we later found out that his strut was more popular -- while out on Sunday, he was congratulated for the walk. And the race, well it was fun. I do have to admit that they needed a large TV and more space; it was just too packed. Though I didn't win the big prize (there was a prize for the person[s] who called first, second, and third), I did choose I'll Have Another for the win; whom else should a wine blogger choose?

The Derby party at Bending Branch ended up being a good time -- people were slow to warm up to strangers (we felt a bit lost at first because we really didn't know anyone), but things got better as we got closer to race time. The wine worked well on a hot summer day, which, out here, is a big win. Now, I'll just have to wait till next year for the 3rd annual Derby Party.