Wine and Sundry: A Look at Westcave Cellars

It is easy to become a fan of Westcave Cellars. The wines are approachable and subtle. The location is picturesque. And the people are about as friendly as they come. After my fist visit, I was hooked. During the last year, I have had more opportunity to visit and get to know the winery. Sean and I made a recent visit to the Pig Pickin party. The weather went from cold and wet just a day before to sunny and warm. It seemed as if Mother Nature wanted us to enjoy Westcave Cellars.

Some Pig Pickin’ Fun

The Pig!

During Sean’s and my last visit, Westcave had one of their regular pig roasts. Allen Fetty slowly barbecued a complete pig in North Carolina style. Those who had decided to buy tickets were treated to all you could eat pork, baked beans, coleslaw, and roles. The pork had a hint of heat and spice. For me, I stayed there; Sean decided to bring on the heat by adding a peppery vinegar based sauce. The food was well accompanied by the current wines available. I drank the current Cabernet Sauvignon (blended with Tannat); it played well with the spice in the pork. Too bad the upcoming Rosé wasn’t available (see below for more on this upcoming release). The light and dry nature of this wine would have been a perfect pairing.

The “Pig Pickin” party is a good idea of what Westcave is like. The Fetty's, the owners, moved about the crowd, sitting and chatting with the rather mixed group of Westcave fans, along with eating and drinking. They are the most gracious of hosts, introducing guests to one another to create a more congenial atmosphere. That is always what it is like at the winery; I always feel like I am going to visit friends.

Flying Pig

 At the same time, this isn’t the run-of-the-mill sort of place. The band playing – Flying Pig – had one of the most diverse and eclectic repertoires I’ve heard.  Early on, they played early Pink Floyd (late sixties, early seventies), but they later played a quieter, deeper track from The Wall. A few country songs were thrown in for good measure, and a list of lesser known songs by well-known bands from the sixties and seventies helped to make sure there was a little something for everyone. They even played more cent hits like Weezer and Radiohead. However, it was when they played “Dreamer’s Ball” from Queen’s Night at the Opera that I started to really smile.

Two of Allen Fetty's Fred Mercury Photos

The odd array of music is a good example of how unique this winery is. During the visit, Margaret told us that Allen had once wanted to be a photographer. His passion led him to see some of the most amazing bands live where we would photograph the performers. We saw pictures of Led Zepplin, Styyx, and the Allman Brothers. But of course I was most in awe of his Queen pictures from the late seventies Live Killers Tour (the tour album is available on CD).

Upcoming Wines

A visit to any winery is never really complete without tasting wines. Allen was kind enough to let me taste three upcoming wines: the Rosé, the Petite Sirah, and the 2013 Tannat.

The first was the new Rosé, which has now been bottled. This wine is primarily Ruby Cab with 

some Merlot. These bright reds give the wine its rich color and the play between both strawberry and cherry aromas and flavors. There is also some Chenin Blanc and Malvasia Bianca added; these bright whites help keep the fruit notes from getting sweet. This will be a big crowd pleaser this summer.

Upcoming Rose'

Also upcoming is the Estate Petite Sirah – to be bottled soon. The inky, dark wine is quintessential Petite Sirah. This is one of the best Petite Sirahs I have had; it is a contender wine that could easily compete against others.

The most exciting preview was for the 2013 Tannat. This year, the winery was able to get enough Tannat to have a standalone and to blend with the Cab. Honestly, I am a fan of their Cab, and I think it is due to the blending; the Tannat adds a layer to the Cab, making a richer red. The new Tannat I tried was very young. It will definitely need the year or so more that t will stay in the barrel. However, this wine is showing a nice balance of fruit and earth, especially oak and tannins. This will be a departure from the long since been sold out first Tannat – which I got to try as well (thanks to Catherine and Marc Matier for sharing the wine). The 2010 Estate Tannat is bright and fruity with subtle tannins. The new one builds from there but shows signs of a fuller body and deeper richness that plays well with the fruit. It should be a wonderful wine.

Westcave Cellars may be a little out of the way for most, but I always find that the drive is well worth it. I feel very welcome when I arrive, which always puts me in a good mood. And when I take that fist sip, I always seem to relax just a bit more. There is something about Westcave, the atmosphere and the wine, that is so calming and peaceful. It is so easy to while away the hours sitting among the trees and starring out into vineyards.

On Things to Come

This Saturday, I was lucky enough to get a bit of insight on what it is coming down the track. At Bending Branch, I was given a full tour, and at Pedernales Cellars, I was given a glimpse.

Bending Branch

As I already mentioned in a quiet little post on Saturday, Bending Branch has a lot of great wine just about to see release. These 2010s will be great pleasers.

The Favorites

Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo will be available quite soon. These two wines, that weren't available to sample just yet, will make their first appearances at the Pearl Farmers Market in San Antonio. Jen heads out every other week to the great spot at the historic Pearl Brewery to sample Texas appellation Bending Branch wines. Right now, they have the Rose (only available at the market) and the new Texas Tannat. And soon, two more will join the assembly (probably just in time for the Rose to disappear).

Some of those barrels say Tempranillo (July 2012).

As for these two, I can conjecture that the Tempranillo is made from grapes grown by respected high plains growers  -- my barrel room visit in July suggests that. With that in mind, there is every indication that we have some great wine coming up. Also, the Cab will likely make its debut at San Antonio Cellar Classic events on Friday, Oct. 12 and Saturday, Oct. 13. That I am very much looking forward to. In fact, Bending Branch will be a featured Texas winery: great news!

Special Tannats

Vintage Texas Tannat

 First, the Texas Tannat will see two versions this year. The second run of this great wine is coming into its own right now, developing great body and balance; the fruit and oak are beginning to harmonize well. But, that is only the beginning. A Vintage Texas Tannat is on its way. This wine still needs some time in the bottle -- the oak dominates the palate -- but it shows a dark fruit flavor that will be robust and hearty, a good match for the American oak that it was aged in.

From left: Vintage Texas Tannat, Tannat Port (labels are coming), and Chloe Cuvee

The wine that has made a select appearance is the new Tannat port (it was served at the Wine and Tennis Charity dinner). This port is a home run for drinkers like me, and even port lovers like Sean. I get bogged down by the sweetness of so many ports. This port has that, but there is an even tone as the other flavors come through. The fruit has an almost earthy quality -- fresh and dried under the sun -- that takes the sweet edge off. And the sugar that comes through is a rich, deep flavor, one that I would associate with dark desserts like gingerbread or Mexican chocolate. It finishes in a way that makes Sean very happy; there is a deep caramel and pecan hint that lingers at the finish. Sean informed me that good ports should end more like this, a richer sweetness. For me, this richer sweetness made the port more approachable.

Pedernales

At the Pedernales wine club party, winemaker David Kuhlken again treated members to a barrel tasting. This time, we tasted an estate Tempranillo. This wine was still in need of aging (I was told at least six more months), but already, the signature earth and bite of Pedernales' Tempranillo are shining through (like the Bending Branch Tannat, it was still heavy on the oak). David explained that this wine will likely find its way into the reserve blends. These blends are a culmination of what is best about Pedernales wines, and so they are made from some of the best materials. The newer blends will have a strong connection to the earth with the addition of this wine. But what I found interesting was that it had a stronger fruit character than some of their previous Tempranillo's -- something that is evident in the wine club Hill Country Tempranillo released last week. This will likely accentuate the other red grapes likely to find their way into the blends.

Ah, Fall is here and the reds are coming out in force. I am a happy camper. I am more thrilled about what I will be able to take delight in as the year keeps going (or maybe early next year). Honestly, I really excited.

34: A Walk in the Vineyard: Bending Branch Part 2

34: A Walk in the Vineyard
Heaven is the sun
filling each leaf and the rain
that quenches are one.

The earth holds each vine,
a tender embrace of soil
and root; they are one.

Man's dedication:
a lover's touch, a parent's
guiding hand are one.

Heaven, earth, and man are one
as they nourish and tend the vine.

Hilltop vineyards at Bending Branch

When I last visited Bending Branch, I could not have planned to learn what I did. Not only did I have a great time there (see the earlier post for the day's events), but I was given a number of great lessons on wine. When Bob Young showed Sean and I around the vineyard, I leaned about harvesting, their crush process, fermentation, and bottling. During lunch, John Rivenburgh explained their organic approach to growing grapes. I never expected to learn so much about wine and especially about growing the grapes.

Tannat just before the 2012 harvest

While we drove by the many vineyards and into the trellised Tannat vineyard, Bob told me about the growing and harvesting of the grapes. First, Bending Branch is interested in finding out what grapes grow well in Texas; to do this, they must take risks and experiment. The Tannat, which was not a grape people really talked about until Bending Branch brought it much needed attention, is an example of how their choices at Bending Branch have lead to success. Not only are they growing it on the property, but it is growing in some of best vineyards in the High Plains. And of course it is spreading. Another experiment that seems to be doing well so fair is the Souzão. Though the grapes used in the Souzão wine primarily come from the Silvaspoons Vineyard in California, that could change with the recent planting of the grape on their property. And even as we road through the vineyard, we saw the newest experiment: Bonarda. Bob explained that they are trying a single row to see how it will go; if it succeeds, they will plant more.

Young vines

In addition to planting lesser known varietals in the vineyard at Bending Branch, they also take different approaches to growing. A number of articles and blogs have discussed the Roman style growth being used on some of the Tannat in the vineyard (they are using it on varietals as well). This approach allows the grapes to reach upward (growing vertically) rather than along a trellis (which is more commonly used by vineyards and dominates most of the Bending Branch vineyard). As for why they are doing it? Well, why not? It does have a natural inclination to grow this way, so allowing it do so could aid in the success of the vines. Even with this technique in use, Bob and John still have most of the varietals, including a quantity of Tannat, grown in the more traditionally horizontal way.

Tannat growing vertically in the roman style

What is most interesting about the vineyard is the organic approach used to planting and care. John Rivenburgh told us that they make use of biodynamics. One key element of this technique is the creation of a balanced ecosystem. When the ecosystem is in balance, all the parts can do well. Recently, John went to Spotswood Vineyard in California to learn from and share with other organic grape growers. He explained that one of the main concerns was soil structure. While planting, they must think about helping the soil develop and obtain the correct nutrition. One way that is done is through coverage crops. These crops, that are native to the area, help keep the soil in balance. These crops can been seen all through the Bending Branch property. On my vineyard tour, Bob pointed out the wildflowers that they specifically allow to grow in and around the vineyard. This is only a start; John has ideas about other native plants we hopes to plant in the coming years to help the ecosystem. And many of the plants they are considering will also add to the appearance of the property.

Yellow wildflowers growing with the grapes

The balanced ecosystem goes beyond the soil. One of the crucial elements John discussed was insects. Many farmers are very concerned about insect problems, and I know I am always on the lookout for new ant colonies appearing in my own yard. In many cases, we would just pull out the chemicals to rid oursleves of the pests. In organic farming, that just isn't done. So how are they kept away? First, the crop diversity from the coverage crops can provide homes and food that are better suited towards the pest. If the pest insects can get exactly what they want with ease, why try to work their way into a less friendly crop like the grapes? The native plants redirect the pests away from the crops and towards the plants specifically planted for them.

The insect topic doesn't end there. Of course, all farmers are interested in one specific insect, the bee; however, it isn't the only useful insect out there. The beneficial insects, those that eat other bugs, are useful too. At Bending Branch, John actually raises and releases beneficials like lady bugs. John encourages other native beneficials as well. All-in-all, these bugs help to keep the other insects at bay. I can honestly say this is working. When we toured the vineyard, I saw very few bugs. I saw bees in the largest quantity -- John isn't in a rush to start beekeeping as one of his nearby neighbors already does -- and saw very few others. I did see one ant on a trellis, but I can't remember seeing much more than that.

Bob Young simulating juice analysis

 One word of warning about all this great organic farming: it is time consuming and precarious. John has to spend a lot of his time in the vineyard.  There is no easy answer with organics except work. At Bending Branch, they have to stay on top of the grapes and the entire ecosystem. This is not to say that more commercial vineyards aren't a lot of work -- all farming is -- but they have to see to every little detail all the time. This also means they have to stay ever vigilant. In the last few weeks, they have had to test the grapes a lot. They have to very closely watch the grapes and harvest them perfectly. To help them with this task, Bob invested in a machine that tests the grapes for their Brix, their pH, and other aspects needed to decide when to harvest. With just a bit of juice, the machine analyzes the sample and sends the results straight to their computer. And with organic farming, they may need to do this more than once a day, and they need the results immediately. This one little machine, which was quite expensive and one of the first in Texas, helps Bending Branch accomplish at least this one goal with ease.

Ready for grape juice analysis

At Bending Branch, the grapes and the wine are everything. Carefully cared for and lovingly tended, each grape on each vine is brought to its full potential in the most natural and harmonious of ways. By the time the grapes are harvested, everyone's dedication is condensed down to pulp and its juice. As I tasted one of the Tannat grapes, I could sense this. I never expected the juice to burst forth from the taut skin. I quickly sucked the grape in, not wanting to lose one drop of the nectar it held. And if the attention in the field was an indication, than I knew the attention in the winery would match.

NOTE: Making the Wine: Bending Branch Part 3 is COMING!

33. Bending Branch Part 1: Visiting

33. Visiting
Up, the hill proceeds,
reaching for the sky and clouds
with each vine and root.

When I look out, my eyes see
the joys and dreams of heaven.

Looking out over the vineyards

A number of articles recently, even this past week, have been highlighting Comfort, TX area winery Bending Branch. It seems everyone is enamored with their Tannat wines. In June, they made quite a showing at the Lone Star International Wine Competition, fetching some key awards, particularly the Best in Show award for the International Red Wine Category with the 2009 Silver Tannat. This past Saturday (July 28) they decided to celebrate with a party -- live jazz from Phil Grota and friends, comfort food from San Antonio's Mars Mobile Kitchen, and special tastings of the two award winning Tannats -- the Silver Tannat and the now unavailable EM Tannat (brought out of the library for the event). Sean and I took this opportunity to pay a return visit. Founders Bob and Brenda Young invited us to learn about and experience their winery firsthand. The day ended up being an incredible one.

Up close and personal with the Lone Star awards

This visit was one of my all-time favorite wine experiences. It was so nice to be welcomed into the winery; even before we met with Jennifer Beckmann-- who set up the visit with the Young's and winemaker John Rivenburgh (Bob and Brenda's son-in-law) -- we enjoyed a tasting with the always pleasant and friendly stewardesses in the tasting room. Jennifer greeted us as soon as she had a chance, and before long, we were getting to know Bending Branch better thanks to Bob and Brenda. This delightful day turned into one of the most informative and eye-opening experiences I have yet had. I left with so much information -- about Bending Branch and wine making -- that I knew it would take awhile to sort it all out. And so, I have decided to breakdown what I learned and share it over multiple posts.

The Wines

This relatively new winery is on the verge of truly exciting things. For wine drinkers, the most important is the wine itself.

Bob Young informing me about Bending Branch's bottling

 In the tasting room

During our tasting, we learned that there will be an estate Picpoul Blanc soon (they harvested their first block last year, and it is currently in the barrels). This year's Picpoul harvest is already done, so we can expect more Texas Picpoul in the future. Next, this year's 2010 High Plains Rose' has been developing in the bottle. During the tasting, I noticed that it was growing smoother, and the reds that make it up are starting to show through nicely, creating a fuller wine. The other treat in the tasting room right now is the Chloe Cuvee (named for the Rivenburgh's daughter). We happily paid the $3 for a taste and the nearly $18 for a glass, but we stopped short of the $75 for a bottle of this limited edition wine (only 50 cases). This red blend brings together Petite Sirah, Tannat, and Souzao in a bright and bold wine. The dark flavors are subtle and captivating. I lingered over my glass, so I could appreciate the warmth and depth hidden within.

On the horizon

Bob took Sean and I back into the vineyard. As he drove us up the hill from the tasting room, we looked out into the rolling hills and were eager to find out about what was next for this winery. Bob had already told us that, before the year is out, they will have eighteen different wines. My appetite was whet. Of course the soon-to-be-harvested Tannat sample that Bob shared helped.

Tannat just about ready to harrvest

Upcoming releases at Bending Branch will include their first forays into Texas' current favorite, Tempranillo (and if the press is right, they are ahead of the next curve with their already established Tannat). This High Plains Tempranillo comes from great vineyards; I noticed some Tempranillo barrels labeled Newsom in the barrel room. They will also bring out a High Plains Cabernet Sauvignon; their last Cab has been sold out for awhile, and this will take its place. There is another vintage of the Texas Tannat, 2010, due out soon. And the Tannat will also see new life as a port-style wine (Sean is ready for that).

Tannat straight from the barrel

What is best about all the upcoming releases is that much more of this wine is Texas grown and Texas made. In the past, a large number of Bending Branch's wines came from California grapes, from vineyards Bob and Johnathan had relationships with (all California grown grapes are labeled with the vineyard name on the bottle). But now, the Texas grapes will be making more of a showing. The last few years have finally seen the estate grapes come into their own, as well as increase in number. And to increase the production, Bending Branch has formed partnerships with High Plains growers, working with growers like Vijay Reddy, who has been supplying them with some of their Tannat, as well as the Newsoms who are taking part in a cooperative planting of Petite Sirah and Tannat with Bending Branch. This was exciting news.

Souzao in the barrel

 Other wines and grapes are making their way into the Bending Branch menu. The sold out Souzao, primarily from California grower Silvaspoons Vineyard in Alta Mesa, will be back. For now, it is one of the few reds mainly from California, but in a few years, some of that Souzao will be Texas grown (they planted some onsite this year). For me, I am glad to see the return of this unique wine. When I first tasted it, I enjoyed its darkness, and I can't wait till the next vintage.

Getting to hand crush Malbec during one of its three daily crushes

The vineyard and production provided insight to other varietals and blend possibilities for the future, including Mourvedre, Malbec, and Anglianico. They are testing Bonarda (a grape originally found in Italy but is now a rising star, and mainly found, in Argentina). I can personally attest to the Malbec, as I had a chance to work with the fermentation of some, but I'll save that for another post. It is clear that a lot is in store at Bending Branch.

Things to come

Not only did we learn about the new wines about to make a showing at Bending Branch, but we were told about future plans for events and fundraisers. Brenda Young enlightened us to what the winery has planned.

September will see a new event that Brenda hopes will be among their annual events (joining the Derby Party in May). A tennis pro-am fundraiser will take place to help the local Boys and Girls Club. Five pros have been invited to compete, and a number of amateurs will get a chance to play. This multi-day event will also include more than just matches; a young, local tennis player will showcase her skills, and children from the Boys and Girls Club will get to participate in tennis clinics and act as ball girls and ball boys at the matches. Helping the kids is the top priority here, but Bob is excited to enjoy one of his favorite sports. Also, the much admired tennis court (which no one can miss as they park) will get some great use.

Dining space on the porch; overlooking the tasting room

In addition to the tournament, there will be a dinner at the Young's residence. Bob and Brenda gave us a tour of their beautiful home, and we saw where the dinner will likely take place. They have an outdoor kitchen and seating area that looks down on to the tasking room. There is also a large courtyard. These areas will be able to provide ample seating for this additional fundraiser, not to mention provide beautiful views of the nearby rolling hills.

Final Thoughts

Brenda Young sharing stories in her kitchen

I cannot say how appreciative I am to have had this wonderful experience. What I learned touring the vineyard, the crush pad, the lab, and the offices provided me a much greater understanding of wine making, making it very clear this is science and art at its best. I will forever be indebted to Bob for teaching me so much and providing this great experience.

The personal touch that Brenda brought to the visit added to the impact of this visit. She and Bob were kind enough to give us a tour of their home. The modern villa -- as I see it -- stretched out along a rise in the hill. Inside, the joys and loves of the Youngs' are enshrined. Bob pointed out their prized Italian oven painted at the Ferrari plant and the wood floor from Colorado; Brenda shared the history behind the checkered tiles in their hallway. Personal joys, such as the French Laundry (alluding to the restaurant) that is tucked behind the kitchen with everything a person needs to care for clothes and a beautiful screened in porch looking out into the yard where the Youngs can watch their grandchildren play, make up this wonderful home.

The Ferrari painted oven

Tile floor moved from the Youngs' last home in Atlanta, GA

We even enjoyed lunch down among the trees (provided by Mars Mobile Kitchen). Here we had the chance to really get to know the Bending Branch family, to visit as my grandmother likes to say. We even learned that not just Bending Branch is ready to expand, but so is Comfort. Brenda told us all about the new opportunities happening in Comfort. This growth is great for Comfort and its surrounding communities.


All of this is just the beginning. Bending Branch is poised for something big. The additional deck being built next to the tasting room is sign of great things to come. I am eager to see. I hope to see everyone there as this winery makes it mark in the history of Texas wine.

NOTE: I learned so much from this visit that this is only the beginning. In the VERY near future, I will write about what Bob taught me about Bending Branch's growing and wine making  processes, as well as the lessons learned on the organic approach used at Bending Branch (thanks to Jonathan).