WW: William Chris Wines' Enchante

William Chris Wines is one of the friendliest wineries along the Texas 290 wine trail. The staff is quick to welcome every visitor and work to make the newcomer feel like a part of the William Chris family. And once someone joins Hye Society, the wine club, a new family member is inducted. This spirit of friendship is expressed well in the winery's signature blend, Enchante. This wine is a wonderful introduction; it is a friendly and relaxed greeting that makes the drinker feel right at home.

Tasting

This Texas Hill Country red blend is mainly Merlot with a good proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. It is evened out with Cab Franc and Ruby Cabernet. This unfiltered wine spends twelve months in new French and American oak.

The current 2010 blend is a strong red with rich fruit scents on the nose. These ripe, dark berries dominate the palate during tasting. Despite this fruit forward nature, the wine is not sweet; it is a lush dry red. This is made possible by the hint of the Texas terroir, the mineral nature so common in much of the Texas soil, coming out, at first, at the end of the taste.  With continual tasting, the essence of minerals and soil comes through a bit more, starting at the middle of the palate. This flavor sits just underneath the fruit and intermingles with the fruit as one continues to sample the wine. At this point, a deeper complexity starts to take shape as the two flavors intertwine and mingle to make a wine that is not so easy to pinpoint. The aftertaste becomes increasingly harmonized between the two, making a pronounced last flavor. This flavor then melts away inviting the drinker to take another sip.

Visual Tasting

My first thought leaned towards the serene and a concept of two seemingly different parts going together. This made me think of a smooth, fluid brook that is taking its time as it makes its way through a wooded area.

The brook is at a state of ease while also moving. It flows naturally, unhindered, as it makes its way on its own time. There are no obstructions, no rocks or debris, littering and disrupting its path. This stream is idyllic, much like the taste of berries that predominates the wine.

The banks are the most interesting part. The stream has no defined edges. Instead, it melds with the grasses and soil that edge it. In some places the brook laps at the soil, and at others, the grass grows out into the water. The two seem intertwined; they fit together and cannot be taken apart. This is like the tannins and mineral quality of the wine that settles into the fruit but doesn't overpower it.

And of course, this stream is dotted with berry bushes. Blackberries and deep red raspberries pop up now and again. The berries are ripe; some are beginning to ooze and attract the occasional bee. The scent takes flight on the movement of the stream and fills the landscape. This is a place to rest against a tree and take a moment to drink it all in. Enchante asks for the same.

Secondary Tasting: A Real-Life Connection

The large oak behind the tasting rooms at William Chris, June 2012

 After I saw the stream, I thought back to the winery itself. The lands behind the current tasting room (and the new one that is nearly ready and looking great) include a large, beautiful oak and a great growth of natural Texas. This of course links well with my image. But this is not what I think about when I think of William Chris. I think about the people. And then it hit me: this wine is William Chris.

As I mentioned earlier, the winery is one of the friendliest. Every time I arrive, I am quickly welcomed. Someone sights me and calls out a greeting. Before long, I find myself hugged. I love this. I love the friendships I have formed at this winery. This matches the comfort and naturalness of the mingling flavors in this wine.

Bill Blackmon

But, this wine is also the two men at the helm: Bill Blackmon and Chris Brundrett. The two men in charge project very different personalities, but they are ones that blend well together. Chris is the fruit flavor of the wine. He is the obvious face of the winery, much like Enchante's fruit forward nature. I can't leave the premises without a hug from him. He welcomes everyone in his natural down home way. On the other hand, Bill is a quieter. He, like the tannins and minerals, tends to hide behind the larger personality. But also like those flavors, he shows to be a very important figure that is crucial to the overall success.This is evident in his dedication to the vineyards that supply the winery with some of the most incredible grapes.

Chris Brundrett

In the end, Enchante is a wine to sit back and enjoy. It is easy to grab a bottle, find a comfortable shady spot, and let the day pass at the winery in Hye. Even at home, the tension slips away, and I feel transported and comforted by this wine. It is a good friend from a winery that wants to make every visitor a friend. 

On Things to Come

This Saturday, I was lucky enough to get a bit of insight on what it is coming down the track. At Bending Branch, I was given a full tour, and at Pedernales Cellars, I was given a glimpse.

Bending Branch

As I already mentioned in a quiet little post on Saturday, Bending Branch has a lot of great wine just about to see release. These 2010s will be great pleasers.

The Favorites

Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo will be available quite soon. These two wines, that weren't available to sample just yet, will make their first appearances at the Pearl Farmers Market in San Antonio. Jen heads out every other week to the great spot at the historic Pearl Brewery to sample Texas appellation Bending Branch wines. Right now, they have the Rose (only available at the market) and the new Texas Tannat. And soon, two more will join the assembly (probably just in time for the Rose to disappear).

Some of those barrels say Tempranillo (July 2012).

As for these two, I can conjecture that the Tempranillo is made from grapes grown by respected high plains growers  -- my barrel room visit in July suggests that. With that in mind, there is every indication that we have some great wine coming up. Also, the Cab will likely make its debut at San Antonio Cellar Classic events on Friday, Oct. 12 and Saturday, Oct. 13. That I am very much looking forward to. In fact, Bending Branch will be a featured Texas winery: great news!

Special Tannats

Vintage Texas Tannat

 First, the Texas Tannat will see two versions this year. The second run of this great wine is coming into its own right now, developing great body and balance; the fruit and oak are beginning to harmonize well. But, that is only the beginning. A Vintage Texas Tannat is on its way. This wine still needs some time in the bottle -- the oak dominates the palate -- but it shows a dark fruit flavor that will be robust and hearty, a good match for the American oak that it was aged in.

From left: Vintage Texas Tannat, Tannat Port (labels are coming), and Chloe Cuvee

The wine that has made a select appearance is the new Tannat port (it was served at the Wine and Tennis Charity dinner). This port is a home run for drinkers like me, and even port lovers like Sean. I get bogged down by the sweetness of so many ports. This port has that, but there is an even tone as the other flavors come through. The fruit has an almost earthy quality -- fresh and dried under the sun -- that takes the sweet edge off. And the sugar that comes through is a rich, deep flavor, one that I would associate with dark desserts like gingerbread or Mexican chocolate. It finishes in a way that makes Sean very happy; there is a deep caramel and pecan hint that lingers at the finish. Sean informed me that good ports should end more like this, a richer sweetness. For me, this richer sweetness made the port more approachable.

Pedernales

At the Pedernales wine club party, winemaker David Kuhlken again treated members to a barrel tasting. This time, we tasted an estate Tempranillo. This wine was still in need of aging (I was told at least six more months), but already, the signature earth and bite of Pedernales' Tempranillo are shining through (like the Bending Branch Tannat, it was still heavy on the oak). David explained that this wine will likely find its way into the reserve blends. These blends are a culmination of what is best about Pedernales wines, and so they are made from some of the best materials. The newer blends will have a strong connection to the earth with the addition of this wine. But what I found interesting was that it had a stronger fruit character than some of their previous Tempranillo's -- something that is evident in the wine club Hill Country Tempranillo released last week. This will likely accentuate the other red grapes likely to find their way into the blends.

Ah, Fall is here and the reds are coming out in force. I am a happy camper. I am more thrilled about what I will be able to take delight in as the year keeps going (or maybe early next year). Honestly, I really excited.

31. Independence Day & Bastille Day Throwdown: Wine Tasting @ Vinously Speaking

31. Independence Day & Bastille Day Wine
France, U.S., Texas:
captured in gem-like liquid
and sharing my glass.


This past Saturday offered me a chance to enjoy wine at home in San Antonio. San Antonio's newest wine shop, Vinously Speaking, hosted a tasting event that showcased French, American, and Texas wines. When I arrived, not long after the event's start time, Sean and I entered a quiet wine shop. We had time to browse through the eclectic selection (a well-earned adjective) before starting in on the wines.

The small little store greeted us with a French feel. French music, provided by DJ Phylo, and French goodies -- tasty cheeses -- lead us to the bar where owner Ceci Barretto was pouring five French wines. In the back portion of shop, fellow owner Melissa Unsell provided three unique American wines. Melissa had help from Pedernales Cellars own Shannon (pouring a great collection of Pedernales wines), Michelle from Daphne and Lola (offering a beautiful display of jewelry), and great BBQ turkey from Monz Bonz BBQ. How could this not be a good time?

Vive La France!

French -- cheese -- display

One of the themes of the event was a comparison of French and American wines; however, Ceci's five French wines allowed for a direct comparison among the group, no American wines needed.

French White #2

French White #1

•  Whites: The two whites from Gascony were both dry and crisp with light flavors that were wonderfully refreshing on such a hot, humid July afternoon. What was most interesting was that the two whites came from nearly the same blend of two grapes -- this allowed for great comparison. Both wines, Cedrus le Blanc and San de Guilhem, contain Colombard and Ugni Blanc (I have to admit, thanks to Dry Comal Creek, I enjoy Colombard). The difference was an almost carbonated, sparkling feel in the San de Guilhem. By adding the grape Gros Manseng (a new one for me), the wine tends to pop a bit. These provided a great start to the tasting. 

Malbec Rose'

•  Malbec: Two Malbec's from Racine de la Terre in Pays d'Oc highlighted a French varietal less associated with France than the New World. The first offering was a dry, rounded rose' that was light and hinted at its fruitier nature. The second, a typical red Malbec, was as expected from a French Malbec. Malbec, no matter the region, has a depth created by its earthiness. In France, this earthiness seems more like tobacco and minerals, creating an edgy depth and complexity. In Argentina, and in Texas, Malbecs are earthy, but the flavor is a smoother one that hints at softened leather and dry minerals. I reaffirmed my conclusion that I prefer New World Malbecs (though Sean appreciates the French ones).



Traditional French Malbec

• Red Blend: We ended with a more traditional French blend, a 2010 Cotes-du-Rhone Linteau Grenache blend. This wine, like so many French blends, needed to be opened up. Once I got a few swirls in and allowed the wine to rest for a few moments, I found a smooth wine that provided minerals and rich fruit. This ended the French selection well -- so much so that I brought a bottle home.

Cotes Du Rhone with Ceci in the background

And the rockets red glare...

The American selection was limited to three choice, but these three showcased the variety of American wines that match well with each region's terroir and climate.

Chenin-Riesling

• White: The Chenin-Riesling blend from Gravity Hills in California's Central Coast surprised me. I am normally not a sweet wine drinker (as many Rieslings are), especially sweet whites (Muscat being the one exception), but this blend's Chenin Blanc softened the Riesling's sweetness and rounded out the wine well. Honestly, I was happy to just have a California white that wasn't a Chardonnay.
• Red 1: The Mankas 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was next. This dark and earthy Cab was not what I expected.  Normally, I find CA Cabs clear and straightforward, but this delightful wine was hearty and smooth with interesting earth notes.



CA Cab

• Red 2: The standout was a Sangiovese blend from Arizona. This surprising wine was bright, like its home state, and smooth. This wine was fruity and earthy. It rounded out the three wine selection for the US well.

AZ Sangiovese Blend

  Don't mess with Texas!

Pedernales Cellars and their fine selection

We ended our tasting with a tried and true favorite, Pedernales Cellars. This is one of two Texas wineries carried (in quantity) at the shop -- the other is Perissos. Shannon, who is always a lot of fun, shared some top Pedernales picks, like the Vino Blanco, the Texas Dry Rose', and the Armadillo Leap Tempranillo. This selection paired well with the final American wine; another warm region with warm weather varietals. The highlight of the three was the rose'. In year's past, this was mainly Grenache, but it seems there wasn't enough Grenache to finish the batch, so winemaker David Kuhlken added the signature Tempranillo (I cannot say enough about Pedernales' Tempranillo). This addition brought a breath of new life to this already great wine. Suddenly there was a power hidden beneath the dry, fruity flavors of this rose' blend. This wine is now energetic; it has a lush, full flavor that got me ready to face the July heat. I was so in love with it that I made sure to leave with a bottle, and I added it to my must buy list the next time I stop by the winery (soon I hope).

After a nice chat and tasting in back, Sean and I made our way to a bustling front room. In less than an hour, the little shop was almost bursting at its seams. This is a nice change from the past. Ceci and Melissa are the third owners of a wine shop in this spot, and I have witnessed all three (I use to live in an apartment that you can see from the back of the shop's complex). In the early days, they were wonderful but pricey for my limited budget. The next owner provided a limited and relatively safe collection of wines (nice but boring). This great little shop, hidden in a strip mall, back behind an always busy McDonald's, and flocked by office buildings, apartment complexes, and hospitals, is a great addition to the San Antonio wine community, and a touch of fun and class on the Northwest side. And on top of everything else, it is a great destination for Texas wine drinkers, with good Texas options and an array of less common wine choices to appease any palate. And best of all, the prices are reasonable and affordable. I'll be back for the next event and when I need a resupply of wine.

A busy tasting room and a successful event!

7. Cabernet

7. Cabernet

Hard packed earth, sun, water:

swaddled the roots, left bare the vine.

I wait for Cabernet.

Cabernet Sauvignon was my entry point into wine. I randomly tried Becker Vineyard's Iconoclast -- a very reasonable buy and a good wine -- and started my journey. For me, it is the essence of my wine journey because now I am trying my own hand at growing, and it is Cabernet.

My little Cabernet vine is teaching an important rule about wine: patience. I have to wait to see what it will do. First, we waited to see if it was still alive after planting. That week and a half was a long one, one with regular check-ups. I so wanted to touch the plant and help it, but I knew, if I did, I could do more harm than good.

Now, my little vine is growing. My two main branches have leaves. Also I see where I may have more very soon. I am excited at this point as the plant grows. I know this will fade as it just keeps doing what it is doing. And at this stage, though I may get more leaves and great size, there will be no big changes for awhile. The buds breaking was the last major change I'll see for awhile.

From what I learned, it will be at least a year, maybe two, before I have grapes. And even if I have them next Fall (this Fall is right out), they will be of little use. When they come, I will reach my next milestone. Then, I'll have to wait until the first usable round grows.

As I said, I just have to wait. I can water and keep the surface of the soil clean. At some point, it will need some help staying up, but it will be a lot of watching and not a lot of doing. This isn't so different from other aspects of wine. I have slowly had to learn, slowly had to explore, before I could come to this place. There were times I wanted to rush, but I couldn't. The same goes for drinking big reds like Cabernet. These wines must open up; they must have time to breathe. I often try to decrease that time with an aerator, but sometimes, I still just have to wait. And, as I keep learning, when I wait, I am rewarded.

6. Bold

6. Bold

Dark, deep tannins grasp,

seeping in, complex tones sway,

desired red wine.

Slowly, my heart, take it in.

Let the heat slide down, satisfied.


I've recently read that bold isn't much of a wine term; it is mainly used in marketing. As such, it isn't a clear definition. But there is often a generally accepted idea, that bold wines are heavy with tannins. This gives some freedom in the definition, as is the case with so many abstracts. 

For me, bold does have the heavy tannin, but it is a wine with strong flavors, often many not quite melding but acting in harmony of one another.I usually associate the deeper berry flavors -- blackberry especially -- and other darker fruits -- currants -- with this. I also would say many bold wines have a hint of chocolate, as well as either a smoky, leathery, or oaky taste. And it doesn't take a genius to know that these flavors do no blend. Instead, they work alongside one another. Often one moves into another, but even more likely, they work as a two flavors in one. Fruit and chocolate naturally do this. When the darker fruits are put into dark chocolate, no one flavor takes over. At times, one is more powerful than the rest. One the edges, they are both there, both noticeable but match like related related colors. For me, I think of my chocolate covered blackberries -- where the chocolate is thick, you taste chocolate; towards the center, it is all blackberry; but where the two meet, it is chocolate and blackberry, separate, equal, and yet, together.

I also often connect bold wines warmth; they are wines that seem to be warm in the mouth and on its way down the throat. Very bold wines are warming on the palate, they almost smother it, like a rich sauce or melted chocolate. As they slide down the throat, they stay warm, like a warm drink on a cold day. Once they accumulate in the stomach, they have a spreading warmth. They are delightful, but not always best for hot summer days.

In the end, my definition does share similarities with most people's, and so both definitions would definitely accept the Cabernet's --my next post by the way -- as bold wines. But I would go beyond that and allow some medium bodied, and not just full bodied, reds into this category. One person I read would place Malbecs here. Honestly, I would place most Texas Malbecs, as the soil adds the deeper complexities more reminiscent of Cabs; however, smoother Malbecs don't always match up. The Malbecs that are more fruit forward and  very smooth aren't bold; they don't have the more visceral effect of a bold wine. One wine I saw missing from most lists, that I would put near the top, is Tempranillo. These wines are always bold; their spicy nature makes them powerful. And, their rich tannins create a depth of flavor like that of a Cab. 


So what is bold? I think bold is what you make it. It will have the distinct flavor of tannins, but is that enough? What you find excites you when you drink a tannin rich red is bold for you. So, be bold.