On Things to Come

This Saturday, I was lucky enough to get a bit of insight on what it is coming down the track. At Bending Branch, I was given a full tour, and at Pedernales Cellars, I was given a glimpse.

Bending Branch

As I already mentioned in a quiet little post on Saturday, Bending Branch has a lot of great wine just about to see release. These 2010s will be great pleasers.

The Favorites

Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo will be available quite soon. These two wines, that weren't available to sample just yet, will make their first appearances at the Pearl Farmers Market in San Antonio. Jen heads out every other week to the great spot at the historic Pearl Brewery to sample Texas appellation Bending Branch wines. Right now, they have the Rose (only available at the market) and the new Texas Tannat. And soon, two more will join the assembly (probably just in time for the Rose to disappear).

Some of those barrels say Tempranillo (July 2012).

As for these two, I can conjecture that the Tempranillo is made from grapes grown by respected high plains growers  -- my barrel room visit in July suggests that. With that in mind, there is every indication that we have some great wine coming up. Also, the Cab will likely make its debut at San Antonio Cellar Classic events on Friday, Oct. 12 and Saturday, Oct. 13. That I am very much looking forward to. In fact, Bending Branch will be a featured Texas winery: great news!

Special Tannats

Vintage Texas Tannat

 First, the Texas Tannat will see two versions this year. The second run of this great wine is coming into its own right now, developing great body and balance; the fruit and oak are beginning to harmonize well. But, that is only the beginning. A Vintage Texas Tannat is on its way. This wine still needs some time in the bottle -- the oak dominates the palate -- but it shows a dark fruit flavor that will be robust and hearty, a good match for the American oak that it was aged in.

From left: Vintage Texas Tannat, Tannat Port (labels are coming), and Chloe Cuvee

The wine that has made a select appearance is the new Tannat port (it was served at the Wine and Tennis Charity dinner). This port is a home run for drinkers like me, and even port lovers like Sean. I get bogged down by the sweetness of so many ports. This port has that, but there is an even tone as the other flavors come through. The fruit has an almost earthy quality -- fresh and dried under the sun -- that takes the sweet edge off. And the sugar that comes through is a rich, deep flavor, one that I would associate with dark desserts like gingerbread or Mexican chocolate. It finishes in a way that makes Sean very happy; there is a deep caramel and pecan hint that lingers at the finish. Sean informed me that good ports should end more like this, a richer sweetness. For me, this richer sweetness made the port more approachable.

Pedernales

At the Pedernales wine club party, winemaker David Kuhlken again treated members to a barrel tasting. This time, we tasted an estate Tempranillo. This wine was still in need of aging (I was told at least six more months), but already, the signature earth and bite of Pedernales' Tempranillo are shining through (like the Bending Branch Tannat, it was still heavy on the oak). David explained that this wine will likely find its way into the reserve blends. These blends are a culmination of what is best about Pedernales wines, and so they are made from some of the best materials. The newer blends will have a strong connection to the earth with the addition of this wine. But what I found interesting was that it had a stronger fruit character than some of their previous Tempranillo's -- something that is evident in the wine club Hill Country Tempranillo released last week. This will likely accentuate the other red grapes likely to find their way into the blends.

Ah, Fall is here and the reds are coming out in force. I am a happy camper. I am more thrilled about what I will be able to take delight in as the year keeps going (or maybe early next year). Honestly, I really excited.

26. The "Twin" Wineries: Pillar Bluff and Texas Legato

26. The "Twin" Wineries
Pure Hill Country
Grape vines wrap around,
cradle a humble refuge:
effortless, wine flows.

Hill Country Song
Carefully they move,
crisp, light shifts to deep and dark:
a wine symphony. 

A word of warning: This is a long entry. I was compelled to write about the two wineries -- Pillar Bluff and Texas Legato -- together. This was due to the strange and fascinating connections the two share.

The last day of our wine trip in the Northern Hill Country found us visiting two distinct wineries with a common heritage. Pillar Bluff and Texas Legato present a different take on wine, from the wine to the bottle. Despite such differences, the two wineries (around the corner and within sight distance of one another) are owned by twins. This provided a unique and exciting wine experience.

The vineyards at Pillar Bluff

Texas Legato

The Twins' Shop: Drops of God, Vol. 2

I first want to talk about the twin thing. Heather, at Pillar Bluff, made it clear that these were very different men. Gill Bledsoe (at Pillar Bluff) spends as much of his time as possible tending the grapes and making the wine. He lives and breathes the whole thing. Bill Bledsoe (Texas Legato) is equally in love with this endeavor; when we were there he was intimately involved. However, this is his weekend job. During the week, he knows the professional world like most of us (I could easily relate). I think their philosophies -- simplicity and complexity -- derive from this. But for me, the most interesting part of this all is the connection to my current favorite comic, Drops of God. 

The Twins: Drops of God, Vol. 2

 One of the main characters, Miyabi, grew up with a pair of twins, Kenya and Junya Ishikawa. Their father owns a wine store that is to passed down to the both of them. Like Gill and Bill, they approach wine differently. One brother is more sophisticated; his appearance is sharp, crisp, and professional, and he focuses on premium wines. The other brother is a former bosozoku -- a biker gang member -- that still retains a bit of that style, the more denim themed clothes and a bit of a 50s throwback (even a pompadour). He wants to find the best wine at the best price, to make it available and enjoyable for all. Though their appearances didn't match, the idea of twins with different takes on wine piqued my interest.

 We started at Pillar Bluff, owned by Gill, after a supportive recommendation from family friends Steve and Kathy Feinstein (see there music work with Fein Tuned and The Tim and Bob Show). We arrived to a small and cozy tasting room; I was grateful, due to size, that we were the only ones there. Heather, who works the tasting room during summer break, greeted us as we entered and welcomed us to taste and chat. We felt very welcome here and enjoyed the conversation as much as the wine. We were told us about Gill but also Bill. We gained insight into the the history of the winery and Gill's philosophy. Then we found the most interesting news of the day: we all attended the same college and studied the same degree for at the same time. Well, that lead to a lot of reminiscing too.

As for the wines, they are simple. Gill seems to be a bare bones sort of guy. He dedicates himself to every aspect of the wine, from the grapes to the wine. The dedication shines through the wine. The MOST perfect example is their 2009 Double Gold Merlot. This wine is deep and complex, more akin to a Cabernet Sauvignon than a Merlot. The color is deep, and the aroma drifts up and hints at the wines subtle flavor. And that is just how it starts; there is a subtle development of flavors until a penultimate point is reached. Here the wine plateaus, and the flavor is rich with fruit that doesn't have much of a sugary feel. The undertone is earthy, but it doesn't get taken over by the mineral nature of most Texas wines. It ends smooth. When I opened my bottle after a bad day about a week back, it seemed to sink in and relax everyone of my muscles. Another stand out was the Tyler, a Rhone style blend. This wine, named for a family member, was more luxurious and closely resembled its French counterpart.

Outside at Pillar Bluff

Before leaving, we did take a bit of time to explore the grounds. Now, despite the small tasting room, the outside had a beautiful open pavilion in a circular form. This area had both an air of classicism and local flavor. It was classy and comforting. Too bad the sun was high in the sky and starting to bare down on us, otherwise sipping on a glass of wine in this peaceful landscape would have been wonderful.

After leaving, we drove around the corner to Texas Legato. This tasting room was homey, obviously made to be a home away from home for the owners. The inside seemed a bit kitschy or over-the-top at first glance, but the friendly greeting and the rapport of everyone there made it seem natural. Now I have to admit that it felt a bit tight and anxious during our visit, but that was because they were bottling when we arrived. The tasting room had a section that was stacked high with newly bottled wine, as well as the extra seating area over taken by labeling. Many of the folks at Texas Legato were running around between the back -- where they were bottling -- and the front. Despite all the activity, time was made to sit down and welcome us. We were even invited to the back to see the bottling firsthand.

At the tasting bar at Texas Legato

It was made clear that this was an example of a small winery bottling. The process was simple. One person took the bottles, usually two at a time, and placed them on a rod that shot water up into the bottle; this effectively cleaned the bottles. This, on occasion, often resulted in the person getting wet. Then the bottles moved through the makeshift assembly line to be filled. Wine was passed through a large steel container into the bottles. Though it seemed the machine knew what it was doing, Bill, who was operating it at the time, often had to check to make sure that enough was put in. Then the bottles had a cork inserted into them. After that, a covering was placed over the cork. The final step looked like placing the lengthwise portion of a hair dryer over this top. This strangely familiar looking tool sealed the material to the bottle. From there, bottles were boxed for labeling, and unlike at Perissos earlier in the day, they did this by hand. NOTE: if you want to see a larger wineries production in the hill country, I would suggest Duchman in Dripping Springs.

Blurry picture of bottling at Texas Legato

As for the wines, these were a more complex array. Blends and less common varietals (compared to the nearby wineries) were the offering. It seems that Texas Legato likes to provide a more complex wine. This is very easy to see in the more complicated and detailed labels (as compared to Pillar Bluff). The blends, such as the Family Reunion, and the ports were the standouts here. The Family Reunion was a bold complex blend that matches the larger wineries (especially the HWY 290 ones) similar red blends. It was rich and bold. As for the ports, well, they are a delight. I am not a port drinker; I often find them too sweet. My husband loves port; he would fit into the traditional formal meals found in Regency and Victorian England (you can also get a feel for it by watching Downton Abbey). The ports here were drier, mellowing the sweetness. But by doing that, other richer flavors came out. Instead of a strong sugary taste, I tasted other flavors, the berry and more earthy flavors. And with Texas Legato's port sippers, those flavors came bursting through.

After these last two visits, we were quite sated, and it was both easy and hard to make the long drive home. We had found two wonderful little gems. The wineries provided some of the most exciting wine and visiting experiences. We knew we had found the great time we had been looking for, and so felt comfortable heading home. On the other hand, these were wines we want more of; these are wineries we want to visit more. This made it very hard to leave. And of course, we are definitely planning on going back.

22. Siesta: A Visit to Fiesta Winery

22. Siesta
Summer's glaring sun:
hindered by the wine's cool breath,
lessened by a hint of sweet fruit.

I will relax here awhile.

Entrance to Fiesta Winery

The end of my first day in the Northern Hill Country took my husband and I to Fiesta Winery. We were told to expect something different. In fact, this region is very happy that the wineries are all a bit special, a bit different from one another. Fiesta, expect to settle in and relax. From the setting to the wines, this is a place to just sit back and take it easy.

When we arrived, we were encouraged to find a table. Only one other table was occupied, a group that had just finished their tasting and was having lunch. We skimmed over a menu of the wines, trying to decide which ones to taste. We were also supplied a score sheet of sorts. On the sheets, we listed our choices (to help the person serving us) and later used them for comments.  I have to admit, I like when wineries give guests something with the wine names and places for comments; it helps to make informed purchasing decisions. We meandered through the wine list and chose an eclectic lot – as the wines here are not the normal fair). From them on, we strolled through the wines, drinking at our own pace. And of course, seated at a table provided a chance to privately share our thoughts and easily take notes.

Inside Fiesta Winery

All that being said, I have noticed a drawback to this sort of set-up. At first glance, the seated and served tasting seems relaxed and nice, but after the visit here, and later at Woodrose Winery the next week, I am beginning to wonder. I always look for a memorable wine experience; I hope to get involved with the wine or the winery – a good example is our chat with Jim Johnson just before our visit to Fiesta (see A Northern Hill Country Landscape -- Visiting Alamosa). I want to take a way something special. This special experience  can be hard in more service-like setting. The person serving the wine has to work harder. It is easy to strike up a conversation and socialize at a bar; there is a natural sense of camaraderie while both parties saddle up at the bar, gaining crucial eye-to-eye contact. At a table, this can be achieved only one of two ways: either sitting down at the table with the guests or just hanging around the table (like many top wait-staff do). Unfortunately, most times I visit wineries like this, no matter how well meaning the folks are, something seems to draw their attention way and keep them from crossing the barrier created by the table. At Fiesta, I realize it was a lazy Saturday afternoon without much going on, and I also realize that Sally was probably busy increasing the presence of Fiesta online, but it wasn’t the homey, welcoming experience I expected (an expectation created by visiting their website).

So, with the tasting underway, the focus quickly turned to the wine. The wines here are almost entirely blends (which can be a VERY good thing), and not the traditional sort. Most of the wines are blended with fruit. This is interesting when it works. The Rhinestone Cowgirl is one of these. This blend of Pinot Gris and Malbec (that single word always piques my interest) is blended with cranberry and prickly pear. The resulting blush is a gentle, sweet fair that is more like a pleasant fruit drink or cocktail. The drawback here is that it isn’t much like wine.

The vineyard just outside the tasting room

That isn’t to say that there aren’t good wines. Fiesta has followed the new Texas tradition and has a solid Tempranillo. This one feels very Spanish, spicy and earthy, the taste of tobacco and leather is powerful; the spice though adds a depth that doesn’t weigh down the drinker. We were told this was the winemaker’s favorite, which is no surprise. This Tempranillo didn’t taste like the Fall Creek one we had the night before (that one was subtle and smooth) or like the Tempranillo blends at Alamosa. Instead, it was robust and swarthy. I could almost imagine a Spaniard, straight from the vineyard, sweat beading on his sun-darkened, resting under a large tree sipping at this wine.

In the end, we lazily moved through our selections, both happy to end with the robust Tempranillo. Inside the cozy ranch-house like tasting room, we watched the sun blaze down on the grounds around us. This little stop is a nice place for escaping the summer heat, from the seating to the wines.